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Routes in Lower Hawksbill

Conventional Warfare T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Diving Board, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Encore T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fat Lady, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gorilla Tactics T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hairy Canary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ice Cream Direct T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Jeep's Chimney T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King of Kings T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
King of Kings roof finish (P-2) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom of the Opera T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Space Invaders T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trundle From Down Under T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whip-or-will T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bruce Burgess, Sam Stevenson - 1989 FFA: Bruce Burgess - 1991
Page Views: 1,473 total, 16/month
Shared By: Ben Sachs on Jun 13, 2010
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Very cool overhung dihedral. Both technical and powerful. Small crimps, but fancy footwork keeps you from pulling too hard on them. This route used to be 12d, but holds have broken and I think consensus is 13a now. Rarely done 2nd pitch climbs short dihedral to the right on gear at 11b.

Location

Right end of Lower HB

Protection

5 bolts. This route was recently rebolted (not by me) with stainless hardware. No more cruxing over rusty self-drives from the 80's. A bolted anchor was also added for the 1st pitch. A fixed nut (#8 BD) used to protect the finish but is not needed with the new anchor and has been removed. Bring one if you are sketched by the 3 moves of 5.6 that it protects (still not a ground fall).

Photos

Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
 
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
 
Keep stemming higher! The anchors were gone but it was easy to down climb back to the top bolt and lower on someone's leaver biner. There is a fixed nut now but it is a drag to lower off of. It would be cooler to continue and link it in to the second pitch. Aug 17, 2012
nbrown
western NC
nbrown   western NC
A new and very steep variation second pitch/link-up has been established through the steep wall directly above the first pitch corner. It's listed as King Of Kings roof finish and worth doing if you like roofy climbing. Jun 22, 2012
Ben Sachs  
 
I hear the bolted anchor got removed. Now instead of maybe 4 ascents per year this will see 0 as it has for the previous decade. I guess this is what the FA party wants. Glad I got to send before it happened. Oct 26, 2011