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Routes in First Tier

Antique T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Caverns, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Commitment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fire Fly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hanging Teeth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jughead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Munginella T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Surprise, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Try Again Ledge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Werner's Ant Trees T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Work Around the Skirt S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Tucker Tech - Late 1980's
Page Views: 554 total, 7/month
Shared By: Osprey Overhang on Apr 27, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is a good line with some high quality sections and also some crumbly sections. The climb begins up a great looking face with beautifully colored, high quality knobs for approx. 20ft. As the knobs end, the quality of the rock deteriorates and unprotected slab climbing begins. About 40 ft. above the ground, a shallow crux water groove with crusty friction must be mantled (.8) over ground fall potential. This section of the climb is short and continued unprotected slab climbing continues until the top third of the climb is reached. Follow a solid crack up and left with good pro over easy to moderately easy fifth class rock. When the crack ends, make a fun move up and to the right (.6) to gain the low angle slab and grassy terraces to the top of the pitch. Cross the trail that serves as the walk off for the Five Open Books and belay from a small tree.

There is a large range of risk involved in the R rated climbs in Yosemite. Some are soft R's (low risk) and some are hard R's (high risk). This climb is a hard R. It is just a tad shy of being X rated.

Location

This route is located on the far left side of the Five Open Books, on a huge grassy ledge up and to the left of Munginella. It is the only climb off of the ledge that starts with knobs.

Protection

A sling or two for the knobs at the bottom, and a couple of finger to hand sized pieces for the top.

Photos

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Osprey Overhang   ...
 
After sampling many of Tucker's routes, I was surprised he did not place a bolt at the crux on this one. This is a serious move that must have puckered even him to make. It sure is an excitingly scary moment that, in hindsight, will bring smiles to the faces of those who have passed through the terror of it.

He must not have had a bolt to spare. Must have been one of those, "Ahh F-it!" days. Although, wasn't every day like that for Tucker? Apr 28, 2011