Mountain Project Logo

Routes in First Tier

Antique T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Caverns, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Commitment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fire Fly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hanging Teeth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jughead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Munginella T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Surprise, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Try Again Ledge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Werner's Ant Trees T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Work Around the Skirt S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Tucker Tech (late 80's)
Page Views: 1,292 total · 20/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Nov 4, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is the nicely featured arete just to the right of Commitment. Well protected, and all of the bolts are good. The route offers fun climbing on good edges and is exposed right from the start. It shares the same bolted anchor as P1 of Commitment. Rappel with one 70m rope.

Protection

Bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap.

Photos

Chad Lawver
Yosemite Village, California
Chad Lawver   Yosemite Village, California
Helpful Beta:
1) Route is 15 feet right of Commitment on the same balcony.
2) The 2nd and 3rd bolt are hidden around the corner and cannot be seen from the ground.
3) You can protect between bolts 1 and 2 with a yellow BD X4 if you'd like (bring a red and blue too). Without the supplimental gear, you could potentially deck.
4) The top is runout, but on 5.4/5.5 terrain Oct 31, 2016
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
From the top of this climb it is also possible to continue up on either Commitment (5.9) or Deaf, Dumb, and Blind (10a R). We did the first pitch of D,D,&B with the intention of going to the top, but bailed at the start of pitch 2.

For pitch 1 of Deaf, Dumb, and Blind:
Traverse out right to a bolt and then climb up to a second bolt. From here work up and right aiming for the sole tree in the middle of the face. Above the tree is a finger crack which leads up to hummocks. Traverse right again to reach another bolted anchor. This pitch is about 5.8 and not too scary. The bolts and anchor are all good.

The second pitch traverses right along a dike to an old 1/4" bolt with a broken hanger. From here an incredibly thin seam heads straight up into a small roof. You can place a nut and then a small cam. Neither are good. The crux I believe is the thin face leading up to the roof, and if you blow it there's a good chance you'll rip the gear and go sailing back down onto the anchor. I chose to return to the anchor by a less speedy means: down-climbing.

With one 70m rope it is possible to rap from the top of P1 back down to the top of Work Around the Skirt/Commitment p1, and then from there you can rap to the ground. Nov 4, 2012