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> E Yosemite Fall…
> Five Open Books
> First Tier
Antique
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in First Tier
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Antique T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Caverns, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Commitment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fire Fly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hanging Teeth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jughead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Munginella T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Surprise, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Try Again Ledge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Werner's Ant Trees T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Work Around the Skirt S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,609 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Apr 7, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Runout face climb on the left end of the 5 Open Books. Scramble to the rope-up spot for Munginella, then traverse a narrow ledge to the left for about 80 ft to the base of a short corner. Climb up this 30 ft corner (Start Me Up, 5.4) to reach a big grassy ledge. Walk along this ledge to access a variety of routes including Jughead. On the right end of the ledge is a prominent arching flake/roof. This is Left Wing (10b). Antique climbs the face under the far left end of this roof and then joins Left Wing for the second half of the climb.
Start by underclinging a small flake and then step up at the left end of it (hard 5.7). Climb unprotected up the face to a super old 1/4" bolt at around 40ft (maybe 5.5 - 5.6, R/X climbing). From the left of the bolt go up a few feet and then work up and right to reach hummocks. Place gear on the underside of a flake and then move right some more and climb up and over. Easy terrain with lots of hummocks will lead to the top. Belay off manzanita trees while sitting in the middle of the descent trail.
Start by underclinging a small flake and then step up at the left end of it (hard 5.7). Climb unprotected up the face to a super old 1/4" bolt at around 40ft (maybe 5.5 - 5.6, R/X climbing). From the left of the bolt go up a few feet and then work up and right to reach hummocks. Place gear on the underside of a flake and then move right some more and climb up and over. Easy terrain with lots of hummocks will lead to the top. Belay off manzanita trees while sitting in the middle of the descent trail.
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