Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 696 total · 11/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Apr 7, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Runout face climb on the left end of the 5 Open Books. Scramble to the rope-up spot for Munginella, then traverse a narrow ledge to the left for about 80 ft to the base of a short corner. Climb up this 30 ft corner (Start Me Up, 5.4) to reach a big grassy ledge. Walk along this ledge to access a variety of routes including Jughead. On the right end of the ledge is a prominent arching flake/roof. This is Left Wing (10b). Antique climbs the face under the far left end of this roof and then joins Left Wing for the second half of the climb.

Start by underclinging a small flake and then step up at the left end of it (hard 5.7). Climb unprotected up the face to a super old 1/4" bolt at around 40ft (maybe 5.5 - 5.6, R/X climbing). From the left of the bolt go up a few feet and then work up and right to reach hummocks. Place gear on the underside of a flake and then move right some more and climb up and over. Easy terrain with lots of hummocks will lead to the top. Belay off manzanita trees while sitting in the middle of the descent trail.

Protection

Light rack to 2"

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