Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Jim Bridwell, Dave and Phil Bircheff
Page Views: 35,540 total · 182/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 30, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

This climb is in the next book right of "Munginella".

P1: Start by climbing a great splitter handcrack (thin at the bottom, may be cruxy) up for a ways to an obvious short face traverse right on nice positive flakes which gets you to a bolted anchor. This is a very nice pitch.

P2: A short section of delicate face climbing (easy, but not well protected) leads up to a corner at the right edge of a roof. Get some gear in the roof and continue up the moderate but sustained layback corner up to the bigger roof above. Gear belay anywhere you want, ideally right underneath the massive roof.

P3: Climb up to the roof and traverse out right to get established in the corner above it (crux). Continue up the nice corner, which presents another 5.9 crux layback/undercling right as you top out. It is possible to avoid this part by topping out to the left as the corner gets blocky, but this second crux is great fun, protects well, and is no harder than the previous 5.9 roof pull. Get after it and do the proud finish!

The top is full of loose rocks and debris; take special care not to knock any of it down on anyone below. Continue up to climbs on the upper tier, or descend as for Munginella.

Protection

Pro to 3".

Photos