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Routes in First Tier

Antique T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Caverns, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Commitment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fire Fly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hanging Teeth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jughead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Munginella T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Surprise, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Try Again Ledge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Werner's Ant Trees T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Work Around the Skirt S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Jim Bridwell, Dave and Phil Bircheff
Page Views: 20,334 total, 149/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 30, 2006 with updates
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This climb is in the next book right of "Munginella".
Either climb a curving corner or a crack to the right to a belay.
Climb unprotected face to the corner and continue to a tree.
Continue up to a roof, traverse under it to it's end and follow the corner to the top.
Descend to the left. be careful not to knock rocks off, onto climbers below.

Protection

Pro to 3".
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, California
  5.9
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, California
  5.9
The crux of commitment is banging your helmet against the roof before making the "committing" move. Oct 23, 2017
We left a bail ring on top of the route and were able to rap down to the bottom in 3 rappels with a 70 meter rope. Sep 27, 2017
Ha! Bruno Beltran ... I was on this about 3 hours after you it appears. My first complete Yosemite climb (2nd day here; hail/rain/snow bail yesterday).

Loved this climb. Followed. P1 start was toughest for me; the rest was fantastic intro to Yosemite granite.

Lots of big loose rocks on top. Jun 12, 2017
Bruno Beltran
Stanford, CA
  5.9
Bruno Beltran   Stanford, CA
  5.9
The crux for me was the top out move. If you continue straight up instead of bailing left, you find what I thought felt like the only real 5.9 move on the climb...

Other than that, the whole climb is cruiser. I took a first-timer and some assisted top-roping during the cruxes got her through just fine. Jun 12, 2017
Vit
  5.8+
Vit  
  5.8+
The right corner/horn of the P2 roof is cracked and wobbles!! Jun 8, 2014
Nick_Cov
Truckee, CA
  5.8
Nick_Cov   Truckee, CA
  5.8
Almost was killed by a party on the top. Fortunately I was still under the roof when a bowling ball tumbled by. Wear a helmet in these parts and use some common sense when you are on the top. May 5, 2014
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
Did this on 9/27/2012. Meant to do The Caverns this day, but couldn't find the line quickly and it was late, so we did this one because there was a party IDing it for us out above. Glad we did! Hardest moves are a few fingery sections at start of P1 and in mid-P2, but otherwise very reasonable. Nice crimp inside crack to help pull roof on P3, and pro in general is excellent. Approach via trail ADJACENT to main paved trail to Yosemite Falls (look for the faint trail where the pavement circle merges into the final straight walking path towards the Yosemite Falls trail). There's a carabiner post at the base and top of this trail. Apr 19, 2013
Rodger Raubach  
  5.9
As a follow up comment to my earlier post: this is probably the best of the harder climbs in the 5 Open Books area, with Munginella being the most "fun." Jul 29, 2012
Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
  5.9
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
  5.9
Great Climb Jun 15, 2012
Why is it listed as a 1 pitch climb here? Apr 30, 2012
Chris I
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
Chris I   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
Besides the first 15 ft and the crux roof move, this climb feels like a cruiser 5.7. In fact, the awkward jamming start felt like the hardest part to me. I didn't find the miracle jug at the upper crux and it still felt 5.9. But all climbers BEWARE- the rockfall danger is real. My partner knocked a baseball size rock off of the top, even when we were being extra careful up there. Thank god it was late December and nobody was behind us. Also, I found this climb ate up small cams from fingers to .75 C4. Jan 6, 2012
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
If you have no line behind you, the rap anchors at the top of pitch 1 make for an ideal set-up to do both starting variations, each of which are stellar and worthwhile. My partner led the lieback to start. We then rapped down and I led the hand crack. This gave us four excellent pitches of climbing happiness vs three.

Please note: the lieback start variation requires a #4 and #5 to lead safely off the deck. If you lead well above 5.8, you may not need the 5 to protect the first 15-20 feet (which felt like the pitch's crux to me). The #4 is required at about 25-30 ft and the crack doesn't taper down to 3" for a good 40ish ft.

This route protects very well. For me, the crux was clearly turning the roof traverse. The final roof exit is airy and committing but not difficult if you don't make it so. Oct 6, 2011
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.9
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.9
Crux for me was the final roof. THE roof on pitch 2 was commiting, but good footwork and a cool head will get you through. Oh yeah, and a #2 C4. Jul 19, 2011
Rodger Raubach  
  5.9
I felt that the initial crack was harder than turning the roof, at least from a purely technical standpoint. Mar 15, 2011
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
Sort of awkward off the ground, the tree makes it easier though. Turning the improbable looking corner of the roof on the P3 pitch was stellar! Don't miss the hidden jug just around the corner. Nov 8, 2010
Floyd Hayes
  5.9
Floyd Hayes  
  5.9
The first few moves of the pitch 1 hand crack are tricky (considered by some to be as hard as the pitch 3 crux) and even a short, awkward fall onto the tree trunk can be painful for either the leader or a follower. Apparently there have been several injuries, including a friend of mine who broke her foot last year while simulclimbing third at the end of the rope (her husband was tied in 20' above her, unfortunately there was some slack between when she fell about 7 or 8 feet). The start is best protected by stepping up the trunk and placing gear as high as you can reach. Keep a tight belay for the follower(s). Some crack climb the start, others (like me) layback it, and one of my friends thought the knobs to the right of it were easier.

For the crux overhang on pitch 3, switching hands in the horizontal crack below the overhang is tricky. Once you've got your left hand set, reach your right hand up and right for a huge jug along the outside edge of the ROOF about a foot out from the vertical crack in the corner above the roof. Once you get the jug, pulling into the vertical crack above the roof is easy; if you miss the jug (like I did the first time) the move is much more desperate. Aug 2, 2010
Steve R.
Oakland, CA
 
Steve R.   Oakland, CA
 
Felt very reminiscent of Munginella but more challenging of course and more fun. Cool crux moves from under the roof into the dihedral. For a solid day of stellar climbing, follow Commitment with Selaginella! May 21, 2009
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Pitch 1 can either be a 5.8 lieback or a angling 5.8 hand crack. Use the tree to make getting into the hand crack easier or get tough and go straight in. You could probably get a few small pieces in the unprotected face up top to get to the 2 bolt belay at the start of pitch 2, but the moves are easy if you can climb the 5.8 crack. At the second belay use long slings or your rope to allow you to stand on the ledge and not hang. If you want to do the 5.8 lieback first pitch on the left bring big gear. Probably at least 2 #4 camalot's maybe even a #5, but I didn't do it because I went up to it with a #3 and it was too small at the start so I did the 5.8 hand crack. So that beta is just from viewing it from below. The whole thing looked wide all the way up, but you can lieback it and not OW. It looks fun.

Pitch 2 is easier, 5.7 mostly, with some nice lieback sections and good gear. We made a natural anchor in horizontals about 10' below the big roof.

Pitch 3 The roof accepts mid sized cams - maybe #1-#3 camalots as it varies in size, I used a #1. Then move right while jamming up into the roof. It really isn't so bad if you hand jam decently. If you reach up and left after the roof there is a huge horn that takes the sting out of everything...though the lieback section to the top is continuous and I thought harder than the roof itself. The exit move is a bit funky and be very careful to not knock rock down on climbers below you. The slope up top is very loose...I would suggest walking high into the trees to belay. On the walk off - there is a rap at the cliff band if it is wet.

Stellar route and you have 2 pitches to gaze up at the roof and wonder how hard it is... Oct 24, 2006