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Jughead
5.8 R,
Trad, 150 ft (45 m),
Avg: 1 from 2
votes
FA: Tucker Tech - Late 1980's
California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley N Side
> E Yosemite Fall…
> Five Open Books
> First Tier
Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures.
Details
Please visit
climbingyosemite.com/ for the latest information on visiting Yosemite.
Ongoing Issues:
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This is a good line with some high quality sections and also some crumbly sections. The climb begins up a great looking face with beautifully colored, high quality knobs for approx. 20ft. As the knobs end, the quality of the rock deteriorates and unprotected slab climbing begins. About 40 ft. above the ground, a shallow crux water groove with crusty friction must be mantled (.8) over ground fall potential. This section of the climb is short and continued unprotected slab climbing continues until the top third of the climb is reached. Follow a solid crack up and left with good pro over easy to moderately easy fifth class rock. When the crack ends, make a fun move up and to the right (.6) to gain the low angle slab and grassy terraces to the top of the pitch. Cross the trail that serves as the walk off for the Five Open Books and belay from a small tree.
There is a large range of risk involved in the R rated climbs in Yosemite. Some are soft R's (low risk) and some are hard R's (high risk). This climb is a hard R. It is just a tad shy of being X rated.
Location
This route is located on the far left side of the Five Open Books, on a huge grassy ledge up and to the left of Munginella. It is the only climb off of the ledge that starts with knobs.
Protection
A sling or two for the knobs at the bottom, and a couple of finger to hand sized pieces for the top.
...
He must not have had a bolt to spare. Must have been one of those, "Ahh F-it!" days. Although, wasn't every day like that for Tucker? Apr 28, 2011