Voodoo Trance
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.9 from 34 votes
Type: | Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches |
FA: | Frank Sarat & Ed Wright |
Page Views: | 2,887 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Dan Petty on Dec 25, 2010 · Updates |
Admins: | Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco |
Description
This route starts out of the Jungle Bowl, access via the first three pitches of Jungle Mountaineering then step off the belay to the left. Hike up third class to the route base on the left.
P1 (5.9) -- 5 bolts, 3 bolt anchor -- Huge runout between first and second bolt, albeit on easy terrain. Fun climbing up and around the small roof with cool laybacks, underclings, and finger locks.
P2 (5.9+) -- 10 bolts, 4 bolt anchor -- A bit chossy in spots and the climbing itself isn't that exciting. The plus hits in a few spots. Ends with a cool big flake that leads to the belay.
P3 (5.10d) -- 9 bolts, 4 bolt anchor -- Climb straight up above the anchor to the roof. Hard to read, but really cool sequence figuring your way over the roof. The rest of the pitch is still thin in spots, climbing on some cool iron deposits along the way.
P4 (5.11b) -- 7 bolts, 3 bolt anchor -- The crux pitch originally went straight up through the overhanging dihedral, but an easier variation (5.10c) was later bolted out left to circumvent the hard moves. The dihedral hosts good underclings and hard smearing, but leads into a more friendly crack system to finish the pitch.
P5 (5.9) -- 7 bolts, 3 bolt anchor -- A fairly standard pitch of enjoyable Potrero climbing can be easily linked with the last pitch to finish up the route.
P6 (5.8) -- 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor -- Climbs a jug crack system to the right and ends on a cool little headwall. Don't worry all the holds are there! Fixed line to gain the garden above, if desired.
Descent -- Rappel the route. P5-6 rappel can be linked with a full 80M.
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