Type: Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches
FA: Frank Sarat & Ed Wright
Page Views: 1,991 total · 16/month
Shared By: Dan Petty on Dec 25, 2010 · Updates
Admins: MAKB, Rudy Peckham, Hank Caylor, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route


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Description

This route starts out of the Jungle Bowl, access via the first three pitches of Jungle Mountaineering then step off the belay to the left. Hike up third class to the route base on the left.

P1 (5.9) -- 5 bolts, 3 bolt anchor -- Huge runout between first and second bolt, albeit on easy terrain. Fun climbing up and around the small roof with cool laybacks, underclings, and finger locks.

P2 (5.9+) -- 10 bolts, 4 bolt anchor -- A bit chossy in spots and the climbing itself isn't that exciting. The plus hits in a few spots. Ends with a cool big flake that leads to the belay.

P3 (5.10d) -- 9 bolts, 4 bolt anchor -- Climb straight up above the anchor to the roof. Hard to read, but really cool sequence figuring your way over the roof. The rest of the pitch is still thin in spots, climbing on some cool iron deposits along the way.

P4 (5.11b) -- 7 bolts, 3 bolt anchor -- The crux pitch originally went straight up through the overhanging dihedral, but an easier variation (5.10c) was later bolted out left to circumvent the hard moves. The dihedral hosts good underclings and hard smearing, but leads into a more friendly crack system to finish the pitch.

P5 (5.9) -- 7 bolts, 3 bolt anchor -- A fairly standard pitch of enjoyable Potrero climbing can be easily linked with the last pitch to finish up the route.

P6 (5.8) -- 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor -- Climbs a jug crack system to the right and ends on a cool little headwall. Don't worry all the holds are there! Fixed line to gain the garden above, if desired.

Descent -- Rappel the route. P5-6 rappel can be linked with a full 80M.

Location

Climb the first three pitches of Jungle Mountaineering and then cross to the back of the vegetated scree field. Voodoo Trance is the middle bolted route.

Protection

Bolts and bolted anchors (see exact counts above).

Photos