Type: Sport, 800 ft, 9 pitches
FA: Ed Wright & Dane Bass
Page Views: 8,654 total · 64/month
Shared By: Tim Stich on Dec 1, 2007
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


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Description

As with other Jungle Wall climbs, the first pitches are straight forward exercises in light crimping and nice hueco pulling. The 4th class scramble pitch in the Garden of Bleedin' breaks up the vertical. The crux is the part right before the overhang. Thin, crumbly rock makes getting to the larger holds on the overhang more difficult than it at first appears. Surmount the actually easier overhang and then you come to another very fun and unique pitch. There are deep dihedrals that completely block out your left/right view of the canyon. This pitch was my favorite. A few more pitches later and you are at the summit ridge. Rappel the route the same way you came up using the same belay stations.

Pitches:

1. 5.9
2. 5.10b
3. 5.6
4. 3rd class through Garden of Bleedin'
5. 5.9 flakes, start of long, black streak
6. 5.10 big roof
7. 5.10d
8. 5.10b dihedral pitch
9. 5.9 to ridgeline

Location

Locate the large overhang to the right of Space Boyz and follow the blank path through the chopped out cactus down. For all I know, it's name may be painted at the first bolt now. Ha.

Protection

14 quickdraws usually works for most routes in the Potrero. A single 60 meter rope is the minimum length you should climb on here.
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.10d
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.10d
Some people just climb the roof and the dihedral and rap, avoiding the last pitch after that. Apr 2, 2008
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.10d
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.10d
A fun varied route thats worth getting on for sure. There are bolts everywhere you need them and the raps are pretty clean for Potrero. Be careful on the loose rock sections. Feb 7, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
I like limestone. Well, I like good limestone. Didn't care for the potrero, should have gone to El Salto. Jul 26, 2010
Morgan F. Smith
Texas
  5.11a
Morgan F. Smith   Texas
  5.11a
Rapping with a 70m rope was close on two occasions! The 10's up top are all awesome climbs, sooo much fun! Especially the dihedrals above the crux pitch! Last pitch is pretty runout so climb if you dare! Summit is worth it! Dec 8, 2014
Dylan Weldin
Athens, OH
 
Dylan Weldin   Athens, OH
 
My partner and I climbed this with an uncut 60m rope. On two of the rappels we were far short of the anchor resulting in some complications on descent. Save yourself the headache and please use a 70m rope for this route. Dec 24, 2014
Phill T  
can confirm, single 70m rope will get you down just fine. Felt like the '10d' roof was pretty sandbagged, if well bolted. Link the two after the roof crux for a fun long pitch! Great route! Dec 25, 2014
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.10d
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.10d
Phil, you thought the roof was harder than 10d? I thought the thin face climbing before the roof is the crux, but that was some time ago. Dec 25, 2014
Tim Fry
Charlotte NC
 
Tim Fry   Charlotte NC
 
With a 70m you can link P1-3 into one and get you to the good stuff faster. You'll need to simul ~10ft on easy ground for both climbers. You could link 5&6 but you should be really comfortable at the grade. The crux is tenuous slab and you'll have 180' of rope out while you're pulling the moves. The final two pitches link nicely with 10' to spare. I would not want to deal with the shenanigans that climbing this w/ a 60m would entail. You'd come up short at least 3 times. Mar 3, 2015
Pink Thunder
Sacramento, CA
Pink Thunder   Sacramento, CA
I think the crux on this is definitely the roof pitch, but the most difficult part is actually the thin face leading up to the roof. More like tricky 11a.

And to echo everyone else here, bring a 70m for rapping, definitely. Jan 27, 2016
david7896
  5.10d
david7896  
  5.10d
Roof was the crux for me. I was glad i took nuts to loop bolts with missing hangers. there where only about 4 i can remember. Good climbing, worth doing Mar 26, 2016
Lots of bad for three decent pitches... i wouldn't recommend this climb to anyone considering the outrageous amounts of loose rocks on pitch 4 and missing hangers on the last pitch. Nov 28, 2016
M HawkMan
  5.11a R
M HawkMan  
  5.11a R
We did this route today and I have a couple of things to add:

This route is very difficult for the grade. I would definitely suggest the actual rating here to be closer to 5.11a. I would also like to add that the bolts seemed a bit spacey in sections. For the most part, the hardest climbing on this route is pretty safely protected although it might feel spooky in some sections.

HOWEVER,

This climbs DEFINITELY warrants an "R" rating. It is very runout in spots. The 5.10b down low feels PG13ish and the 3rd pitch of 5.6 is extremely runout. You cannot fall on this pitch and there is loose rock. The same goes for the final 5.9 pitch. There are at least 2 rivets you will climb past on this final pitch between your bolt-clipping,( the hangers are missing). Again, you will be climbing roughly 5.9 terrain with some pretty serious runouts over sharp rocky ledges and the potential for big loose rock to come off. Having said that though, it didn't feel too scary leading the last pitch so long as you are careful and comfortable on 5.9- just don't fall. Seriously.


All and all I was disappointed with this route. There are certainly some good pitches here (everything from top of garden of Bleedin' through the dihedral pitch is pretty decent) but it is absolutely not worth all the trouble of getting up there and dealing with loose rock and rather unmemorable "approach" pitches. Everything up through the Garden of Bleedin' is rather terrible IMHO. We almost knocked rock off the route twice when we were rappelling, but we were saddling the rope and thankfully the saddle bags caught the big stones before they surrendered to gravity. And one more thing: the little rap hanger things which make up each belay look pretty awful. It looks like someone made them in their garage or picked them up at the hardware store....20 years ago.... Like many routes at the Potrero, this one could use a retro bolting. It was not exactly comforting to be weighting that old rusty hardware, and this hardware seemed worse than other routes here in EPC

I will never climb this route again and do NOT recommend it. Go get on Pitch Black instead!!!! Dec 26, 2016
Shao Hao
  5.10d
Shao Hao  
  5.10d
Amazing climb, fairly graded and decently sustained. Highly recommend for the 5.10 climber. I don't know what's with the hate from some comments saying that there so much choss that makes the climbs bad. Also doesn't warrant a 'R' rating at all. Not everything has to be bolted like a gym. If you are confident climbing 5.10 none of the sections are unreasonably bolted.

Anyway here's a pitch breakdown:
P1+2+3 (about 15 ft of simul climbing with a 70m)
P4 (chossy 3rd class, use fixed rope to balance)
P5
P6 (phenomenal pitch, crux roof)
P7+8 (cool dihedral on 8)
P9 (summit box on top, bring a pen cause the ones inside are all dried)

YOU MUST RAPPEL WITH A 70M. Even with a 70 some parts were barely reached. Remember to knot your ends! 20 draws will get you through with this pitch beta. Hope you enjoy this great climb, my personal favorite from EPC. Jan 8, 2018
Pad Awan
Val David Qc
 
Pad Awan   Val David Qc
 
Très ordinaire et dangereuse tellement y’a de la roche loose!
Loin d’une ‘classique’.
2* max!!! Nov 22, 2018