Type: Sport, 1000 ft, 11 pitches
FA: Curtis Mai & Todd McCray - 1994
Page Views: 25,368 total · 198/month
Shared By: Robert MacKinnon on Jun 13, 2008
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


248 Opinions

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Description

P1: 5.8
P2: 5.9
P3: 5.9
P4: 5.9
P5: 5.10
P6: 5.10d
P7: 5.10
P8: 5.9
P9: 5.10
P10: 5.9
P11: 5.9

This classic route was bolted entirely on weekends (52 of them!) by a pair of South-Texan climbers. Watchout for the loose rock on pitches 9-11, especially when descending. I have witnessed huge rocks dislodged from there by climbers yarding on their stuck ropes. For that same reason I wouldn't recommend climbing below another party. A 60 meter rope to rap works fine. You may wish to consider using a rope-bag or flaking your rope over your shoulders when descending in windy conditions. The sixth pitch is awesome!

Location

Starts behind and right of the pavillion and finishes atop a spire/gendarme.

Protection

Bolts with anchors.
MikeZ
Albuquerque, NM
MikeZ   Albuquerque, NM
I'm planning on climbing this route in the next few months. Is there a certain day of the week or month that this climb will be more likely to be free of people? I've just heard stories of how this climb is always packed. Also, how is the climb lately, any recent reports? I plan on linking a few pitches as the lamountainers beta page suggests, should I be taking 24 quickdraws with me? Feb 8, 2011
Lee Frazer
Durango, CO
Lee Frazer   Durango, CO
We did this route a year ago over a N. American spring break, and we were the only one on it. Mar 25, 2011
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
 
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
 
Fun climb. Crux pitch is thoughtful. Nov 20, 2011
Mark Grundon
Lee Vining
 
Mark Grundon   Lee Vining
 
For a free online topo visit:
Free Space Boyz Topo Oct 28, 2014
Lotte Meijer
Amsterdam
 
Lotte Meijer   Amsterdam
 
20 quick draws and a 60m were enough to link 1&2, and 4&5 and 8&9.
The sun hit the rock (in Feb) around 11/12, and some parts of it were in the shade from 3PM.
Plan your climb accordingly. Feb 24, 2015
Lance Ranzer  
 
Awesome route!! Bring a 70 meter rope and 26 draws if you wanna link and swing leads.
Rapping was easy with a 70mm as well. Pitch 6 & 7 are the 10c/d parts of the climb Dec 3, 2015
Pink Thunder
Sacramento, CA
 
Pink Thunder   Sacramento, CA
 
Climbed Space Boyz on Jan. 9. No more crap all over the route. And I hope the idiot that was responsible for that got his ass kicked. Had a great time.

Also, I thought the two pitches after the supposed crux were actually harder than the 10d traverse moves.

And it's really easy to link pitches and make the whole thing just six pitches. Just take about 25 draws and a 70 meter rope and you'll be fine. Jan 27, 2016
Bobby S
Lafayette Colorado
 
Bobby S   Lafayette Colorado
 
When you are rappelling from the ledge on top of pitch 4 do not skip the anchors 15ft below the ledge. If you do you will not make it to the next set of anchors even with a 70m!!! Feb 3, 2016
Dana Prosser
Boulder
Dana Prosser   Boulder
On pitch 7, clip 4 bolts or so and then head right towards a brushy corner. Going straight up here would be difficult with a bad fall potential. The free online topo (link posted by Mark in comment section) does a good job of showing this. Mar 1, 2016
Loved this. We started at dawn and simul-climbed till we almost ran out of draws for first four pitches. swapped and finished the easy pitches. Then single pitched the rest. Brought two rope buckets and simul-rapped from the buckets. This greatly reduced time spent retrieving snagged ropes vs sequential raps. It gets very windy with lots of flakes to snag thrown ropes. Jun 12, 2016
Fritz Nuffer
The Western Slope
Fritz Nuffer   The Western Slope
Several rap anchors are less than desirable, oftentimes rusty, spinning cold shuts. However, many stations also have a newer set of anchors alongside them, just without chain or rings. Wère I lucky enough to repeat the route, I'd bring a handful of quicklinks to enable rapping on the newer bolts. Jan 23, 2017
Kevin Patterson
Wellington, New Zealand
 
Kevin Patterson   Wellington, New Zealand
 
As a bona fide 5.10a sports leader ;) I can highly recommend the first 4 pitches of this route. You will be challenged particularly on p3 which is quite sustained. I would differ with the guide regarding grading, I would rate them 5.9, 5.8, 5.10a, 5.10a. I can also recommend for those lacking 5.10b skills but wanting to do a full multipitch route to have a look at Crescent Moon Buttress, about a 30min drive away. Nov 18, 2017
Kate Stanley
AZ/NM
Kate Stanley   AZ/NM
Left small grey backpack on summit on 12/23. If found, ask for Kate at La Posada kitchen. Thank you so much! Small reward will be offered. Dec 24, 2017
Kyle Bishop
Nevada City, CA
Kyle Bishop   Nevada City, CA  
An 80 meter let's you rap from the top to the anchors on top of the final 10a pitch without using the intermediate anchors. I don't think you'd make it with a 70. The rest are unfortunately single raps.

An 80 also let's you link any 2 pitches Dec 28, 2017
Shao Hao
  5.10d
Shao Hao  
  5.10d
So far my favourite climb in the canyon. Was the first party up at 9am and summit 5 hours later. With a 70 we did:
P1+2
P3+4
P5 (10a)
P6 (10d)
P7 (10c)
P8+9
P10+11
This worked out pretty well for us as it split the climbs 6 and 5 leads per person. The climb is super cool and the crux is awesome. Just watch out for large loose blocks (Mostly x marked) and also note to find the belay anchors (2 bolts), don't use the rappel rings for belaying. P4 anchors are on the big ledge just past the chains, P5 anchors are to the right of the traverse ledge past the rap rings, P9 anchors are above the ledge where the rap rings are. Drink up, enjoy the sunshine and have a great climb! Jan 3, 2018
El__roberr Mx
Aguascalientes, Mx
  5.10d
El__roberr Mx   Aguascalientes, Mx
  5.10d
Agree with Shao Hao
P5 (10a)
P6 (10d)
P7 (10c) Jun 7, 2018
Colin Brochard
Austin
  5.10d
Colin Brochard   Austin
  5.10d
Watch out for a small rattlesnake on the big ledge atop pitch 4 (NOV '18) Nov 25, 2018 · Temporary Report