Type: Sport, 1500 ft, 15 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ismael Garza & Ed Wright 1999
Page Views: 20,924 total · 153/month
Shared By: Charles Konopa on Dec 21, 2007
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route

211 Opinions

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This is a long moderate route with the 15th pitch being 5.12a. If you don't do the 15th pitch, it goes at 5.10b. I only did the first 14 pitches. We climbed with a single 60m rope and on the raps, we had the knot up against our belay devices multiple times. I recommend the 60m rope, a 70m would be an extra 10m * 14 * 2 = 280m of rope to manage. The rock is sharper the higher you go, until the 14th pitch...in shade and not as sharp. Here are the pitches as best I can remember:

All pitches are 80-100 feet long.

P1: 5.8 Climb pockets to a semi-hanging belay.

P2: 5.8 Climb pockets.

P3: 5.10b Some more pockets, but steeper and thinner. Some crimpers.

P4: 5.8 Jugalicious!!

P5: 5.9 Jugs to a fun roof.

P6: 5.10b Follow the fixed rope around the corner to a good belay stance. Climb carefully up left side of large spiny cactus. The crux comes about halfway.

P7: 5.9 Left angling face climbing with fixed quickdraws to aid in rapping down. Would recommend clipping your own draws to bolts on lead.

P8: 5.9 I led this one. I just remember it being fun. I think it went right and up through a crease in the steep wall on the right.

P9: 3rd Class. Follow fixed rope up for about 50 feet, then follow trail to right, then left as it winds around (140 feet?) to a nice belay stance in the shade.

P10: 5.10b After cooling off in the shade, climb up easy rock to first bolt, then do some 5.8 liebacking through 2 bolts, then pockets/jugs for a couple bolts, then pull through crux on sharp holds to a small stance at anchor.

P11: 5.9 Off the belay make some tight moves to right and up. This is a strong and continuous 5.9 pitch.

P12: 5.9 Less strenuous than the pitch before, but it pulls some vertical moves on jugs, but the jugs are starting to feel too sharp on my raw fingers! The belay is right near the ridgeline.

P13: 5.8 Climbs along the ridgeline on the sunny side up sharp rock to an awesome belay on the shady side. Did I mention there is glorious shade at this belay? There is a summit register of scraps of paper with names on it. Plenty of room here to unrope, drink, eat, cool off, chat, and take pictures.

P14: 5.9+ This pitch starts at a bolt on the far end of the lounge in the shade. Climb rock that is not as sharp on your hands. Do some fabulous stemming and some chimney stuff to gain the sunny ridgeline. Follow ridgeline to belay anchors.

P15: 5.12a I am not this good of a climber, and if I were, my fingers would be too raw, but I could see the closely spaced bolts running up to a cool top out point. I had my partner lower me back to the lounge area, because this belay stance was small.


Hike past the tin shed and about 30 feet uphill. This is the long clean line left of Space Boyz.


Most pitches seemed to need 10-12 draws.
Eddie Avallone
Lewisburg, WV
Eddie Avallone   Lewisburg, WV
The last 2 pitches are the best on the route, a 10a/b dihedral and 12a/c thin face. Exposed and wild to a great topout! Jan 7, 2008
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
Great route, I liked this one alot better than Spaceboyz, solid rock all the way up. The last 12a pitch is fun and worth doing, although the calcite? holds fell pretty sharp. I climbed it straight on the bolt line, with what I felt was the natural line and 12a felt pretty accurate. Jan 6, 2009
Matt Swartz
Camper van on the road.
Matt Swartz   Camper van on the road.
Start early, we got a late start and ended up rapping in the dark. I seem to remember the pitches between 4 and 7 being chossy. A super fun route! Apr 24, 2009
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Ed may be right. There might be a move of .10a somewhere on this route, but I was probably so bored I didn't notice it. Jul 26, 2010
Ethan Davis
Hailey, ID
Ethan Davis   Hailey, ID
The last two pitches top off what could be one of the best routes I have ever done. The summit is great. The climbing is rad. Get there before 1st light if you want a crack at first go. Jan 20, 2014
Mark Grundon
Lee Vining
Mark Grundon   Lee Vining
For a free online topo check out:
Yankee Clipper Topo Oct 29, 2014
great constructive comment, "caughtinside." that'll definitely help the gapers that try to get up this thing, like the infamous JS. Jan 9, 2015
Lotte Meijer
Lotte Meijer   Amsterdam
Just wanted to note that we had a 60m rope, and were fine on all the rappels. Had at least 4-6ft left beyond our prussiks (autoblocks) at all times.
Great climb. Feb 24, 2015
Ken Chase
Toronto, ON
  5.12a PG13
Ken Chase   Toronto, ON
  5.12a PG13
Great route for a moderate (except last pitch, 12a/c)! The 10b's up higher felt stout - classic slabby lack of feet in veined/grooved sharp rock.

can easily link 1+2, 3+4, 5+6 possibly draggy due to first bolt on 6 around corner (worked for 20m of simul rope though), 7's a bit of an angling pitch but would link ok with 8 (both short). Walk thru garden, 9+10, 11+12 link nicely (belay top of 12 in the lounge is over the edge, could be slightly draggy and hard to hear, but extended anchors would lessen friction at belayer). didnt check 13+14 for link, we singled them.

Dont throw your rope down rapelling down 12-8, tons of cacti, stubborn trees and lots of angled sharp hungry crevaces. Dont make the mistake of rappelling to the ledge from top of 8 to mid 7 (i missed anchors a bit hidden on left), its just at the end of a 70m (can get safely off - theres no pro but its wide enough for safe standing - solved with 2nd rapper setting rope). 6 and lower you can more safely just toss rope. Simulraps to share rope payout/management admist cacti saved a ton of time (just get your communication right and tie end knots please!).

be super careful overtorquing on some of the giant hollow plates of rock esp on p4, p8, p10-12. Cant believe a couple of them are bolted. Lots of X'd rocks about. Feb 7, 2016
I could not find the register at the 13th pitch there so we added a new one. It's a ziplock bag with a used tape roll in it. It's stashed in the crack at the left as soon as you reach the top of the pitch. It should be dated 1/14/16 if I remember correctly. Feel free to add whatever in the ziplock register. Mar 10, 2016
Yogi PS
Yogi PS  
climbed on May 29,2016. We did not go for the bonus pitches. luckily, its an over-cast day!!! We can easily link pitches with a 70mts rope.
Use the rattlesnake ledge as a lunch stop and enjoy the canyon view while working on your snacks! You will love the view.
While on the cactus trail pitch, use the rope to climb up and as soon as the rope ends, look right. You will see a trail. This trail goes up for 4-5 ft and moves left. Follow this trail till you end up into a wall. Look for the Cactus God and some goodies. Now look up (on your right) to see the first bolt! Climb on!!

Please be careful while rappelling down. High chances on missing the anchors. I dont think we were able to link pitches for rappells with a 70 mts rope.

Holds are sharper (real sharp!) on the upper pitches. But good holds every where!

We offered a non-climbing biner and some tape to the Cactus God! :-)

If you think about linking pitches, please carry at least 17 draws. Jun 21, 2016
Izzy K.
Jackson, WY
Izzy K.   Jackson, WY
We linked 1+2, 3+4, 5+6, 7+8, 9+10 and 11+12 with a 70 m rope and never used more than 20 draws. Linking 5+6 caused some pretty heavy rope drag but you're pulling on jugs all the way up P6, so it was ok. You could link the last two pitches but the belayer won't see the climber for the last (5.12) crux and there would probably be some annoying rope drag.

My notes are based on the pitches as described in the free topo (14 pitches total, not counting the scramble after P8 as a pitch itself). Jul 8, 2016
Jake Cantu
Jake Cantu  
Hands down the last two pitches are the best. For being a classic, I was not that impressed with the lower pitches. They were chossy and the 5.10 pitches weren't that great. More like one move of 5.10 then a jug haul.

However, if you're looking for a route to romp up and get high off the deck, the ease of this route makes a good choice for that. Jugs, jugs, jugs!

The last 12a pitch I thought was pretty spot on for the grade. I thought the natural line was slightly left of the bolt line that followes a couple of crimp rails. Super solid, fun, and EXPOSED climbing! Dec 2, 2016
Kevin Patterson
Wellington, New Zealand
Kevin Patterson   Wellington, New Zealand
Was going to do the first 5p of this but found p3 (5.10b) too runout and scary. Can we please have some extra bolts on this pitch! Nov 18, 2017
Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
Monica Jones   Bishop, CA
Favorite route in Portrero Feb 10, 2018
Did this in early march of 2018. I would recommend a huge favor for a minor upgrade to the climbing community. On a traversing pitch (below the jungle walking pitch) there is a ratty fixed draw. Leave a better draw there or replace with a metal fix draw. That would be wonderful and last longer than cloth in the sun. Also, the rope on the jungle pitch is in rough shape where it drags over the rocks and through cactus. Standard practice in EPC seems to be to piece together static ropes by tying knots in them. I would recommend this entire rope being replaced or at least sections of it for safety. Core is completely exposed down to core strands in places. Perhaps even some kind of rubber sheath to protect against the key rubbing areas (e.g. sharp limestone rock, sharp cactus) would be amazing. I wish I had known....
Otherwise an amazing, fun route. Climbs really fast down low, but the last 12a pitch was really hard and insecure for several bolts, but then eases off after about the 5th or 6th bolt. Killer summit. Be careful up there not to kick down stones. Lots of loose gravel and rocks. Mar 29, 2018
Nathan Paluck
Mexico City
Nathan Paluck   Mexico City
December 2018: There is no longer a fixed rope for the 3rd class 9th pitch. From the belay ledge, we went to the right, then took a left through cactus and bramble to hook up with the trail. Not ideal, but we were simply looking for the fixed rope! Jan 6, 2019 · Temporary Report
Andrew Chen
Washington, District of Col…
Andrew Chen   Washington, District of Col…
As others have said, awesome last 2 pitches! I think that the calcite holds on the last pitch have probably worn down considerably since the FA, leaving it way harder than any of the other 12as I've done in the park Jan 16, 2019
Justin Wallace
San Diego, CA
Justin Wallace   San Diego, CA
Personally thought it was a great climb. The 5.9 pitches before the ledge are great and the second to last pitch is money! As for the crux.. I would have to grade it harder than 12a. Maybe if you had a lot of time to suss it out and fresh fingers it MIGHT go at 12a. However, its fun and worth the challenge. Jan 27, 2019
Jason George
Portland, OR
Jason George   Portland, OR
Some beta for pitch 15: First two bolts were casual. Seemed straight forward going to the 3rd but this is when it got hard. Once you clip it seems to be a line going left and right of the next bolt. I ended up going right. This leads you to a small pocket that you can clip off of. From here there is a right hand side pull that will let you get a little higher. It starts to ease off a little after this but still some solid moves. Feb 1, 2019
Russ Walling
Overlord @ FishProducts
Russ Walling   Overlord @ FishProducts
Really a cruiser route for just about anyone that has ever done a 5.10 move... right up to the last pitch. If you are a 5.12 crusher guy, I can’t imagine climbing all that way up there to do 5 bolts worth of sharp 5.12. You will probably die of boredom long before you encounter the gnar.

But, for someone that wants a bunch of easy climbing with a couple moves here and there in the 5.9 range, this route is your huckleberry. No big mystery on linking pitches with a 70m. Start with 1 and 2 and go from there carrying about 20 draws. The jungle pitch 3rd class or whatever basically weaves up and left from the belay a couple hundred feet to some bolts going up a small right facing corner/crack system. There is a small talisman hangout at the start of the pitch. Continue linking from here on up as far as you want to go.

Reversing the moves from the jungle to the raps is sorta sketch... walking to climbers right and then down into the rap station when you are right at the brink will probably lenghten your life. No great trick in rapping to the ground... standard stuff, hit each station, watch for rocks etc. etc. I’d go a solid 3.7148 stars for the regular 5.9+ guy skipping the last pitch or so. Mar 7, 2019
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
It's known that I don't toss around star counts but YC surpassed my expectations and earns 4! The pitches may not be particularly difficult but that is part of the attraction right? Each pitch had something of value and fun to climb, even if it's moving at a fast rate and gaining the amazing view. No muss, no fuss plus some top quality pitches in the mix.

Overall, I did not find the route particularly chossy and was amazed that the rock was still tacky after a zillion ascents. There are a few X blocks here and there and the jungle ledge migration has some crumbs but these are the same challenges of any other long-adventurous route, anywhere.world Mar 11, 2019
Mickey Guziak
Grand Junction
Mickey Guziak   Grand Junction
Yesterday we were on Space Boyz and somebody pulled off a car hood size 10" thick flake from the 5th or 6th pitch, we saw it careen down and hit the 4th pitch belay on Space Boyz. Luckily everyone ran away that was below and nobody was injured. Be careful out there! 1 day ago