Type: Sport, 1500 ft (455 m), 15 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ismael Garza & Ed Wright 1999
Page Views: 25,556 total · 164/month
Shared By: Charles Konopa on Dec 21, 2007 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Hank Caylor, MAKB, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


259 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a long moderate route with the 15th pitch being 5.12a. If you don't do the 15th pitch, it goes at 5.10b.  Using a single 60 meter rope will have the knots up against the belay devices on multiple raps. A 70 meter rope is recommended for those who like extra rope management or are bad at tying knots in the end of the rope.  The rock is sharper the higher you go, until the 14th pitch...in shade and not as sharp. Here are the pitches as best I can remember:

All pitches are 80-100 feet long.

P1: 5.8 Climb pockets to a semi-hanging belay.

P2: 5.8 Climb pockets.

P3: 5.10b Some more pockets, but steeper and thinner. Some crimpers.

P4: 5.8 Jugalicious!!

P5: 5.9 Jugs to a fun roof.

P6: 5.10b The crux comes about halfway.

P7: 5.9 Left angling face climbing with fixed permadraws to be clipped as directionals on the rap down.

P8: 5.9 I led this one. I just remember it being fun. I think it went right and up through a crease in the steep wall on the right.

P9: 3rd Class. After topping out the pitch 8 anchors, walk about 50 feet to another set of anchors to belay up your partner, then follow trail to right, then left as it winds around (140 feet?) to a nice belay stance next to a rock thread.

P10: 5.10b After cooling off in the shade, climb up easy rock to first bolt, then do some 5.8 liebacking through 2 bolts, then pockets/jugs for a couple bolts, then pull through crux on sharp holds to a small stance at anchor.

P11: 5.9 Off the belay make some tight moves to right and up. This is a strong and continuous 5.9 pitch.

P12: 5.9 Less strenuous than the pitch before, but it pulls some vertical moves on jugs, but the jugs are starting to feel too sharp on my raw fingers! The belay is right near the ridgeline.

P13: 5.8 Climbs along the ridgeline on the sunny side up sharp rock to an awesome belay on the shady side. Did I mention there is glorious shade at this belay? There is sometimes a summit register that lives here. Plenty of room here to unrope, drink, eat, cool off, chat, and take pictures.

P14: 5.9+ This pitch starts at a bolt on the far end of the lounge in the shade. Climb rock that is not as sharp on your hands. Do some fabulous stemming and some chimney stuff to gain the sunny ridgeline. Follow ridgeline to belay anchors and a small stance.

P15: 5.12 This pitch is traditionally rated 5.12a, but would be a hard one at that. 5.12b is probably more fair. Climb a technical face with small holds for a few bolts, you may choose to use the left side of an arete for a few moves or stay on the face. The climbing eases up as you get higher and ends at bolted anchor on top of the Spire.

Location

Hike past the tin shed and about 30 feet uphill. This is the long clean line left of Space Boyz.

Protection

Most pitches seemed to need 10-12 draws.

Photos