Canadian Controversy
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
| Type: | Sport, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches |
| GPS: | 25.94838, -100.47698 |
| FA: | Ian Lingley, Mandie Walls |
| Page Views: | 1,343 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Ian Lingley on Feb 28, 2020 |
| Admins: | Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
1st pitch,
5.8, 9 bolts, 25m
Easy climbing on good holds, lead up to a good belay ledge.
2nd pitch
5.10 a/b, 8 bolts, 30m
Chill climbing on great holds lead to a Boulder problem crux finishing at the anchor.
3rd pitch (The Money Pitch)
5.11+… 19 bolts, 35m
10 feet of easier climbing leads into the business. Tricky sustained climbing up a corner (20m) leads to a roof, pull around the roof to the right and follow a right facing corner with 10+ moves. This pitch is full value and will keep you in your toes.
PS. I know it's alot of bolts...
You could rap the route at this point with a 70m
4th pitch
5.9, 9 bolts, 20m
Clip the first bolt and make delicate moves around some large scary blocks (be careful) to access the crack system above. After a couple bolts the pitch trends left on good face holds ending in a small down climb to a nice ledge.
5th pitch
5.10 b/c, 10 bolts, 30m
This is a great exposed pitch that starts with some easy corner climbing then enters a series of cracks with the crux being a section of finger crack. The Pitch then eases up as you head to the chains.
This pitch still has some branches in the crack that will hopefully clean up in time.
You can either rappel down the route from the top of pitch 3.
If you finish the route there is a separate rappel route straight down the wall from the top, you use the pitch 4 anchor then rap over the roof.
5 rappels from the top
70m required.
This route is a new route and still has some dust on holds and with time will clean up.



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