Type: Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Jeff Jackson, Alex Catlin, 1989. Last 2 pitches: Craig Pacinda, Dion Alaniz
Page Views: 5,160 total · 36/month
Shared By: Matt Richardson on Apr 21, 2007
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route

127 Opinions

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The first bolted line in El Potrero Chico. The route follows an obvious clean water streak just below a large bowl (watch out for loose rock). The first three pitches go at 9 to 9+ with run outs. The fourth pitch is the business. This takes off right from the belay at the top of the third pitch. It leads up through a small dihedral on thin moves(crux) and ends on easier rock into a small alcove (uncomfortable hanging belay). The fourth pitch will stretch your 60 m rope, so be careful about how the rope is run through the anchors. Jeff Jackson recommends this climb for a moonlight ascent in Mexico Rock.


This climb is located on the left side of La Selva. This route is accessed by a trail leading up to the left of the tin pavilion (this had been destroyed in a flood last time I was there in December 2004; it has since been rebuilt). The route is between Jungle Boy (on the left) and Yankee Clipper (on the right).


The route is protected by bolts that are widely spaced (particularly on the first two pitches). The bolt spacing is wide enough on these pitches that it is easy to get off route, so be careful. The anchors are fixed with chains at each belay. As with any climb on La Selva, be careful when pulling your rope after a rappel -- nothing sucks more then having to ascend a stuck rope!


Austin, TX
KirkH   Austin, TX
This route has been retro-bolted and is no longer "runout." Mar 11, 2009
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
That is most excellent in my opinion. Both time I have been up this route, I have found myself 15-20' past my last bolt (P2 or P3 I believe, my memory no longer serves) and about 10' to the left of my next bolt when I finally realized I was slowly meandering off route (the traverse was never fun). Sep 8, 2010
Ken Chase
Toronto, ON
Ken Chase   Toronto, ON
was on this today.. 'no longer run out'. There are still a couple 15' gaps between bolts in places, but yes, the 3rd pitch has like 6-7 bolts, not 3. Traverse from the p3 belay up p4 can be done above or below the slab (both are similar difficulty), slightly run out. mind your rope drag. very slabby climb overall, prepare those calves! Feb 5, 2016
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
1st pitch is a nice warm up, if there is a crux it's the move before the last bolt. Small stance belay, easy to see your second. 5.9 - 7 bolts - One *

2nd pitch - more of the same slightly easier with little bulge mid-way losing sight of your partner. Still easy to see and communicate. Small stance belay - 8 bolts - 5.9- - One *

3rd pitch - you not only have gotten your groove on and traveling fast but it's probably 5.8. Angled but sufficient belay ledge with high bolt up and left from the station which helps if you're keeping things organized (route launches up & right from the station). 7 bolts - 5.8 - One *

4th pitch is worth the other mileage. Fun traverse - started with long runners at the first two bolts, then the longer of my quickdraw stash (7"). After the traverse is a well featured stemming, kinda nifty slab that pulls a small roof with many features. Up and over few more bolts with another long sling at the second to last bolt - trend right to anchors. You can see your belayer easily. 5.9 no rope drag, - 10 bolts - Two **

Rap the route, pulls pretty easily but did saddle ropes from 4 back down to 3 due to vegetation and traversing line. Final pulls are straight and easy with a 70.

Notable, I'm sure you you could link 1&2 with little trouble but it's nice to see your partner and pitch it out. I would recommend all 4 raps however. Mar 1, 2016
l rs
l rs  
While I usually ageee and value everything Susan posts I humbly disagree about the first pitch.It IS 5.9 BUT I would not put a new 5.9 climber on this nor would I put someone on this who isnt solid at 10a.The first bolt is not a cruise to get to and it easily 25 ft off the ground. Nov 22, 2016
Kevin Patterson
Wellington, New Zealand
Kevin Patterson   Wellington, New Zealand
Unfortunately the first 3 pitches have become so polished that they should probably be rerated in the 5.10 range Nov 18, 2017
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
Polish on first pitch makes this pitch at least a 9+. Feb 27, 2018
Colin Brochard
Colin Brochard   Austin
Good clean rock, not as sharp as other routes in the canyon - perhaps b/c of all the traffic it's seen over the years. All the pitches felt about 5.9 -10a to me. Nov 25, 2018