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Routes in Upper Mother's Buttress

3-D T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Crab Head Poseidon God S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doppelgänger T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flight Without Wings T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Goremanghast T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
In Search of Don Juan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lady Boy Show T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Questions and Answers T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Steerpike T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sugi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Dyke T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Throbbing Gristle Project T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown 5.9+ T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
White Cross aka Titus Groan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 135 ft
FA: Andy Petefish
Page Views: 208 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Aug 25, 2010
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Leo Paik, John McNamee

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Description [Edit]

Climb the left-trending crack until it starts to Crescents. You can place a small cam and make traversing moves to a bolt. Make big moves past the second bolt. You can fit in some small C3 cams in between the bolts in places as they are decently spread apart. The territory around the 3rd bolt is the crux which is very balancy and crimp intensive. Continue on with gear through easy territory. Angle left slightly to meet up with another bolt on the face and do some 5.11+ moves to the top.

Location [Edit]

Route starts 15 feet left from 3-D.

Protection [Edit]

Bolts, medium C3s, small nuts, a few medium to large cams for the beginning and middle of the route. Two rope rap from Titus Groan anchors.

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