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Routes in Upper Mother's Buttress

3-D T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Crab Head Poseidon God S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doppelgänger T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flight Without Wings T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Goremanghast T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
In Search of Don Juan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lady Boy Show T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Questions and Answers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Steerpike T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sugi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Dyke T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Throbbing Gristle Project T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown 5.9+ T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
White Cross aka Titus Groan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Layton Kor and Harvey Carter, FFA: Chas McQuarie and Joe Kahein
Page Views: 334 total, 3/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Oct 25, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Pitch 1: stellar. Climb big hands to fingers. This takes you to the big ledge with a two bolt anchor.

Pitche 2 is the crux offwidth pitch where you go around several bulges. There are plenty of face holds and features, so one doesn't have to do any real offwidth climbing. Bring lots of slings, stretch the second pitch a full 60 meters to gain a ledge (past the squeeze which is slick!), and belay.

Pitch 3: the last pitch is mostly easy terrain, but watch out for extremely loose rock on the last hundred feet.

Location

The route starts up the right side of a giant A on the west, outside of the gully. To your left it a left trending crack. You can either do the right of left side of the A. The right is 10- and the left 11ish fingers.

Protection

A set of nuts, Doubles from #0.3-4 Camalots. One #5. Two ropes for the rap. Rap Doppelganger for the fastest and safest decent. To the right of the top out of Titus Groan below a large dead Pinyon Pine.

Photos

This route was originally named the White Cross (obvious, right?) and was done by Layton Kor and Harvey Carter (date ?, I'm certain it was back when sex was safe, there was still real money, and climbing was dangerous).

Later, when the Marmot Mountain Works folks showed up, the primary developers of the Mother's Buttress Area, Chas McQuarie and Joe Kahein did the FFA of the White Cross and called it Titus Groan. Jan 12, 2017
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
 
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
 
The route to the left is not a 5.7, in fact it is the start to two 5.12 climbs. The slings are just bail points. I would recommend that if you want to do the beginning section of these 5.12 routes, to just climb to the first pitch of Titus Groan and top rope it. A rats nest of webbing around a chock stone a quarter the way up an existing route is not justification for putting in anchors.
-Jesse Aug 25, 2010
DavidCollins
Grand Junction, CO
DavidCollins   Grand Junction, CO
Yes, I meant on the left. Aug 25, 2010
I think you mean the one to the left. Jesse didn't want to replace the slings at all - he thought it would be better to cut the slings and not have a fixed anchor there. Me, I would have placed bolts! Aug 24, 2010
DavidCollins
Grand Junction, CO
DavidCollins   Grand Junction, CO
Nice work on the anchors. Does that include replacement of the anchors on the 5.7 crack to the right of Titus Groan? The route which ends at the chockstone with the slings. Aug 24, 2010
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
 
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
 
First pitch anchors and protection bolts for the routes below Titus Groan have been replaced courtesy of the ASCA. Aug 23, 2010
TuFF GonG
gunnison Colorado
 
TuFF GonG   gunnison Colorado
 
A great alternative to the beginning of the second pitch is to traverse directly left off the belay to the second crack system. Climb face and a crack/seam into a nice left-facing, thin crack. Oct 12, 2009