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Routes in Upper Mother's Buttress

3-D T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Crab Head Poseidon God S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doppelgänger T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flight Without Wings T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Goremanghast T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
In Search of Don Juan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lady Boy Show T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Questions and Answers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Steerpike T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sugi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Dyke T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Throbbing Gristle Project T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown 5.9+ T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
White Cross aka Titus Groan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Pike Howard (first pitch), Jesse Zacher, Rob Pizem
Page Views: 1,429 total, 17/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Dec 6, 2010
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Doppelgänger: describes the sensation of having glimpsed oneself in peripheral vision, in a position where there is no chance that it could have been a reflection.

A Great independent line with lots of variation in the climbing and sustained 5.10 fun.

Pitch 1: Climb east terrain over a few ledges until you can go right into the offwidth. Climb up with a mix of OW, chimney until you reach a rest below the bulge. Climbing hands and fingers through the bulge and onto the face past two bolts. Belay in the alcove. 5.10, 40m.

Pitch 2: Leave everything bigger than a #3 Camalot at this belay and get it on the way down. Some route finding! From belay, go [left] to a bolt and around the alcove. Climb the crack up until it gets steep. Go left on the seam until you can stand up and gain the rail that traverses right. Lots of slings! Do a wild traverse to a ledge. Place a piece up high and do a friction traverse right to the base of a crack that tapers to two bolts. The crux comes at the first bolt. After the second bolt, trend left up the crack system to a nice belay ledge with two bolts. 5.11, 50m.

Pitch: 3. From the belay ledge, go [left] around the arete to the pale face with several crack system. Keep trending slightly left until you gain the obvious crack system to a bolt. Move right of the bolt and continue following the great crack system straight up that keeps opening and closing for 50 feet. Where the rock changes to a darker color and gets steep there is a bolt. Clip and go right onto the face and onto easy climbing straight up to the anchors. 5.10, 35m.

Decent: from the top, you can rap to the top of the second pitch with a 70m. A double rope rap gets you to the top of pitch two and another double gets you to the ground.

Location

The route starts 20 feet left of Questions and Answers to the right of some scrub oak. Look for the obvious chimney/OW corner.

Protection

Double set from green C3 to #4 Camalot. One #5 Camalot. Leave the big stuff at the first belay!
chris righter
  5.11
chris righter  
  5.11
Good route, but not quite as good as Questions and Answers. Here is a little more info on the wandering 2nd pitch. At the belay go left to a bolt. Then climb up the crack/flake to a chossy mini-roof, then get on the left-leaning seam that goes into a right-leaning crack that becomes the hand rail that you traverse to the crux crack system with 2 bolts. Fun safe route with solid rock on pitches 2 and 3. Makes one realize how untapped this area is for new route development. GO DO IT! Jan 15, 2011
Skyeler Congdon
his van
Skyeler Congdon   his van
Nice work, guys!! This line looks awesome! Can't wait to go check it out. Dec 6, 2010
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
 
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
 
Trundle Footage when cleaning and equipping the route:

youtube.com/watch?v=eTmwunO… Dec 6, 2010