All Locations > Colorado > Grand Junction Area > Unaweep Canyon > Main Canyon: Unaw… > Mother's Buttress > Upper Mother's Buttress
Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
Routes in Upper Mother's Buttress
|3-D T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Crab Head Poseidon God S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Doppelgänger T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Flight Without Wings T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Goremanghast T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|In Search of Don Juan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Lady Boy Show T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Questions and Answers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Steerpike T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Sugi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Super Dyke T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Throbbing Gristle Project T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Unknown 5.9+ T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|White Cross aka Titus Groan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Pike Howard (first pitch), Jesse Zacher, Rob Pizem|
|Page Views:||1,429 total, 17/month|
|Shared By:||Jesse Zacher on Dec 6, 2010|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionDoppelgänger: describes the sensation of having glimpsed oneself in peripheral vision, in a position where there is no chance that it could have been a reflection.
A Great independent line with lots of variation in the climbing and sustained 5.10 fun.
Pitch 1: Climb east terrain over a few ledges until you can go right into the offwidth. Climb up with a mix of OW, chimney until you reach a rest below the bulge. Climbing hands and fingers through the bulge and onto the face past two bolts. Belay in the alcove. 5.10, 40m.
Pitch 2: Leave everything bigger than a #3 Camalot at this belay and get it on the way down. Some route finding! From belay, go [left] to a bolt and around the alcove. Climb the crack up until it gets steep. Go left on the seam until you can stand up and gain the rail that traverses right. Lots of slings! Do a wild traverse to a ledge. Place a piece up high and do a friction traverse right to the base of a crack that tapers to two bolts. The crux comes at the first bolt. After the second bolt, trend left up the crack system to a nice belay ledge with two bolts. 5.11, 50m.
Pitch: 3. From the belay ledge, go [left] around the arete to the pale face with several crack system. Keep trending slightly left until you gain the obvious crack system to a bolt. Move right of the bolt and continue following the great crack system straight up that keeps opening and closing for 50 feet. Where the rock changes to a darker color and gets steep there is a bolt. Clip and go right onto the face and onto easy climbing straight up to the anchors. 5.10, 35m.
Decent: from the top, you can rap to the top of the second pitch with a 70m. A double rope rap gets you to the top of pitch two and another double gets you to the ground.