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Routes in Upper Mother's Buttress

3-D T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Crab Head Poseidon God S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doppelgänger T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flight Without Wings T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
In Search of Don Juan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lady Boy Show T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Questions and Answers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Steerpike T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sugi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Dyke T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Throbbing Gristle Project T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown 5.9+ T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
White Cross aka Titus Groan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Andy Petefish et al. ?
Page Views: 79 total, 1/month
Shared By: Matthew Seymour on Dec 19, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Climb up the finger crack pulling past a bulge to start (harder than it looks). Continue up fingers and ring locks to a small ledge where the route meets Titus Groan. Follow the perfect hand crack up to a sloping ledge with a two bolt anchor. Rap from here, or continue up Titus Groan.

The crack leans quite a bit to the right, making it a bit more difficult than it might look.


This route is an alternate first pitch to Titus Groan. Starting on the left side of the A. There is an intermediary anchor about 25 feet past where the routes meet. So you can rap this route with a single rope. (Rather than climbing the whole remainder of the first pitch of Titus Groan to the big ledge with a two bolt anchor.)


Nuts and cams from tips through hands.


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