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Routes in Hell Wall (aka Quarry Wall)

Blind luck S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blindsided S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dick and Jeanie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Glass Balls S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glass Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Green Lantern, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hecks Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
John's Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kevin's Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mercy F**k S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One Hit Wonder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Self Mutilation S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spider Chimney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown, see below T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: FA Jack Klein and Steve Sangdahl circa 1981
Page Views: 941 total, 10/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Jul 9, 2010
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Starts cool, gets cooler. Off-width skills needed. There is a great belay station at the top.

Location

Starts on a crack system to the right of "The Green Lantern". Go straight up and then traverse a bit left to the obvious chimney. Belay in the alcove above. Walk off the spire to the north.

Protection

Tri-cams and some nuts will get the job done but cams will help on the bottom.

Photos

Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
FA Jack Klein and Steve Sangdahl circa 1981 Nov 30, 2015
That's an awesome route, solid pro, we did it several times back in 86 (maybe earlier?), had to pull the loose stuff off the ledge before the off width crux at the very top. A full value route. This used to be called the apartheid wall, I think we named this Gary Player, or something like "lick my love pump", I don't quite remember... May 17, 2015
Tradiban  
 
It goes left. Aug 13, 2011
Ryan Justen
St. Paul, MN
Ryan Justen   St. Paul, MN
Great Climb...No anchors though :(

Does this go left (up the chimney) or right (around the arete) towards the top? Aug 13, 2011
Rich T
  5.8
Rich T  
  5.8
Great climb, easily protectable. Apr 10, 2011
Tradiban  
 
In the upper chimney there is a large loose block it will move a bit but wont come out on you. Jul 9, 2010