Adventure Projects is hiring an Android engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Hell Wall (aka Quarry Wall)

Blind luck S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blindsided S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dick and Jeanie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Glass Balls S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glass Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Green Lantern, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hecks Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
John's Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kevin's Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mercy F**k S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One Hit Wonder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Self Mutilation S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spider Chimney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown, see below T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Nathan Kutcher 1997
Page Views: 2,076 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Aug 7, 2004
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


25 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Locate the next bolted route right of Self Mutilation. The climb is identified by thin cracks up a steep wall.

Perhaps the best bolted 5.11 in Wisconsin, Dick and Jeanie features a steep start and a bouldery crux. The climbing remains asthetic despite its short height. A popular project route, given its straightforward moves and beautiful position.

Protection

bolts

Photos

Rob Riggleman
Santa Barbara, CA
Rob Riggleman   Santa Barbara, CA
I noticed there is a bolt above the anchor...anyone have any info on the upper section? Are there more bolts, mixed pro, etc? Jan 30, 2006
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Rob,

I believe the guys who put these up came back and lowered the anchors on several of these routes. I think because the rock is a little more sugary up top. Sep 4, 2006
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11+
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11+
This route is highly temperature and humidity dependent. First time I was on it a few years ago it was about 90F with high humidity, and we thought it was mid-5.12 for sure, very hard crux and the crimp out right was completely useless to make the crux move. Two weeks later, 20 degrees cooler and breezy, and it felt 11b. Fun route. Jul 8, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.11d
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.11d
Great route up some amazing features. Felt like a mid 5.12 until I figured out the beta. The bottom is super powerful to a technical crux. Bolts are place terribly. Sketchy to clip the second bolt. Sep 7, 2010
"Perhaps the best bolted 5.11 in Wisconsin."

Really? A two-star route? How about the four-star Red Recollection at Qual Wall? Or the three-star Now or Never? Or the lovely, long Schizophrenia? Arguably this is the best bolted 5.11 at Neceedah, but not in Wisconsin.

I liked this climb, but the breathless hyperbole is over the top. May 5, 2015

More About Dick and Jeanie

Printer-Friendly