Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Nathan Kutcher 1997
Page Views: 2,167 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Aug 7, 2004
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

Locate the next bolted route right of Self Mutilation. The climb is identified by thin cracks up a steep wall.

Perhaps the best bolted 5.11 in Wisconsin, Dick and Jeanie features a steep start and a bouldery crux. The climbing remains asthetic despite its short height. A popular project route, given its straightforward moves and beautiful position.

Protection

bolts

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Rob Riggleman
Santa Barbara, CA
Rob Riggleman   Santa Barbara, CA
I noticed there is a bolt above the anchor...anyone have any info on the upper section? Are there more bolts, mixed pro, etc? Jan 30, 2006
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Rob,

I believe the guys who put these up came back and lowered the anchors on several of these routes. I think because the rock is a little more sugary up top. Sep 4, 2006
chris tregge
Beersconsin
  5.11+
chris tregge   Beersconsin  
  5.11+
This route is highly temperature and humidity dependent. First time I was on it a few years ago it was about 90F with high humidity, and we thought it was mid-5.12 for sure, very hard crux and the crimp out right was completely useless to make the crux move. Two weeks later, 20 degrees cooler and breezy, and it felt 11b. Fun route. Jul 8, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.11d
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.11d
Great route up some amazing features. Felt like a mid 5.12 until I figured out the beta. The bottom is super powerful to a technical crux. Bolts are place terribly. Sketchy to clip the second bolt. Sep 7, 2010
"Perhaps the best bolted 5.11 in Wisconsin."

Really? A two-star route? How about the four-star Red Recollection at Qual Wall? Or the three-star Now or Never? Or the lovely, long Schizophrenia? Arguably this is the best bolted 5.11 at Neceedah, but not in Wisconsin.

I liked this climb, but the breathless hyperbole is over the top. May 5, 2015