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Routes in Hell Wall (aka Quarry Wall)

Blind luck S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blindsided S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dick and Jeanie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Glass Balls S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glass Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Green Lantern, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hecks Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
John's Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kevin's Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mercy F**k S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One Hit Wonder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Self Mutilation S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spider Chimney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown, see below T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Nathan Kutcher and Chad Berger 2001
Page Views: 3,370 total, 25/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 4, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Far right side of the wall is a short line. Start up slabby terrain on good edges to the roof. Climb out and left to the anchors. The move to the anchors is height dependent, but still not a big deal.

Location

Right side of Hell Wall

Protection

bolts

Photos

We were just on this route this past weekend and my friend pulled off a huge rock (about 14" x 14") after clearing the roof. There seemed to be another area up in the same area that recently had a rock pulled loose as well. I had previously onsighted this route earlier in the summer, and was forced to finish the route this weekend after the rock coming loose, and felt it was a much different climb. With the missing holds, I feel like this is closer to a 10c/d at this point. I'm also not sure how a shorter person would accomplish this anymore - I'm 5'11" and had to throw pretty far to get the final holds. Sep 12, 2017
Andrew R.
Linden, VA
  5.10a
Andrew R.   Linden, VA
  5.10a
Fun route. With good technique last move isnt really height dependent. Might take a time or two to figure it out though. Jun 3, 2010
This routes name is 'Mercy Fuck'. The original anchor was a bit higher and there was one hard move to get to the clipping hold. Long draws on the anchor would allow you to clip from lower and skip the crux so I threw the 5.10 climbers a bone and put in the lower anchors. Nov 4, 2007
NiClips
Madison, WI
NiClips   Madison, WI
Chris, That sounds good. We're actually going to Gov. Dodge for more bouldering next weekend. Drop me a line here sometime. It's always nice to meet up with new people. ~Nic Jun 16, 2007
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
 
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
 
NiClips-- yeah it's a heady move. I sat there for a while and looked at it before committing. It's been a couple years since I did that route, but as I recall, you are going for a jug ledge at the top/anchors. I eventually just sacked up and lunged. I will be moving to Madison in a couple weeks and would be happy to meet up with you this summer out at Necedah, esp. if you show me around Gov. Dodge sometime. Chris Jun 15, 2007
NiClips
Madison, WI
NiClips   Madison, WI
I think this is the right route...anyway
Is it just me or is the move up left to the last bolt scary?!? I've been on it three different times and had to bail 3X. I have no problem 'til I get out from under the roof. I traverse right then its left undercling, right pinch. The move itself is not hard, (left side mantle, and the holds are good) but the fall looks nasty! I know I could do this on the ground or on TR, but the fall potential to me looks bad; plus the wind hits me every time just as I get out from under the roof. Any suggestions? I really want to bag this.

PS: Rope-Gun wanted ;) Jun 13, 2007
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
 
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
 
Fun route but there is some loose rock. I was belaying and my buddy Jay stepped on a football size block up high that let go and exploded in front of me. I stepped back so it wouldn't hit me and if I hadn't been anchored in would have stepped right off the belay platform. Jun 4, 2007
Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
  5.10b/c
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
  5.10b/c
I thought this was a very fun 5.10 and a good warm up. There was one undercling right after the slab I think, and it is very thin, I was worried it might break. Sep 4, 2006