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Routes in Hell Wall (aka Quarry Wall)

Blind luck S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blindsided S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dick and Jeanie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Glass Balls S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glass Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Green Lantern, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hecks Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
John's Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kevin's Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mercy F**k S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One Hit Wonder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Self Mutilation S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Spider Chimney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown, see below T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,419 total, 16/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Mar 8, 2005
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Self Mutilation climbs up to and around the right side of the big overhang. The 5.11+ version begins in a crack on the left to gain the roof. (Climbing the face/corner directly to the roof would definitely make the climb much harder, probably 5.12+.)

Technical moves below the roof quickly give way to thuggery, as the climber strains to reach the anchors. You can see this line from the highway.

Protection

bolts.
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
 
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
 
Super chill dyno to get to under the roof if u cant figure out the moves. ;) Sep 12, 2015
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.11d
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.11d
Man, did I do some wild shit on this route! Looking at these photos now it seems that people choose to go the "reachy" way to get underneath the roof. I chose to get a toe hook, crimp and bump up to get under the roof. This route is pretty damn good and a tricky onsight. To reduce rope drag extend the 3rd draw, not the one directly under the roof... that one can be easily reached from the undercling. Sep 5, 2011
Tradiban
  5.11d
Tradiban  
  5.11d
Broke off part of the two hand side pull today underneath the roof. Still goes at the same grade. Maybe an inch more reach on it though.

Also did a direct start that is right of the shallow seam but an big block with an under-cling seems ready to ride! Keep your belayer out of the way. Apr 23, 2010
Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
You mean from that big ledge, straight over the thin face to the right of the crack? Yeah my buddy climb it. But he forgot to bring another draw for the anchors, which got really sketchy. But anyways, the face was really balancy and we guessed it to be 12c/d maybe? Sep 4, 2006
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
I think this line is probably the best at the wall. Does anyone know if the direct start ever got climbed? Sep 4, 2006