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Routes in Wailing Sax Wall

Auld Lang Syne T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Birdland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carola's Hip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakey Puffs From Hell TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Holy Cross T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In A Silent Way T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Jo Mama T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Made In The USA T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maiden Voyage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Misha's Madness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Morning After, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Year's Quickie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sanctify Yourself T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satchmo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Take Five T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tipples in Rime TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wailing Sax T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Dimitri Barton, January 1988
Page Views: 1,051 total, 12/month
Shared By: Donno on Jun 9, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This climb follows the dominant feature of the wall: a crack that goes up the middle of the wall and continues as two cracks as it goes thru a bulge/roof. An enjoyable route with good pro and fun moves thru the bulge.

Protection

Small cams and a #3 to protect the roof. There is a hangerless bolt about 1/4 the way up. Rap anchor at top.

Photos

plantmandan
Brighton, CO
  5.8
plantmandan   Brighton, CO
  5.8
This route has some nice hand jams and a really fun roof finish. Highly recommended. The bolt partway up has been removed, but there are plenty of gear placements. Oct 18, 2014
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
If you're tall enough, you can cinch the bolt stud before committing to that move. Great nut placement next to the stud also once you step up. Jan 1, 2014
Great climb and lead good gear couple small pieces. Apr 3, 2013
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Our friend Meaty picked a good (yet obvious) line here. Route is fun climbing, takes great gear and cool moves over the roof. Nothing hard, tricky or weird about this thing. Just good clean fun! Bolted anchor makes for easy decent but could lead to people camping on it for the day. Dec 31, 2012