Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Dimitri Barton, January 1988
Page Views: 1,276 total · 12/month
Shared By: Donno on Jun 9, 2010
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

This climb follows the dominant feature of the wall: a crack that goes up the middle of the wall and continues as two cracks as it goes thru a bulge/roof. An enjoyable route with good pro and fun moves thru the bulge.

Protection

Small cams and a #3 to protect the roof. There is a hangerless bolt about 1/4 the way up. Rap anchor at top.

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Our friend Meaty picked a good (yet obvious) line here. Route is fun climbing, takes great gear and cool moves over the roof. Nothing hard, tricky or weird about this thing. Just good clean fun! Bolted anchor makes for easy decent but could lead to people camping on it for the day. Dec 31, 2012
Great climb and lead good gear couple small pieces. Apr 3, 2013
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
If you're tall enough, you can cinch the bolt stud before committing to that move. Great nut placement next to the stud also once you step up. Jan 1, 2014
plantmandan
Brighton, CO
  5.8
plantmandan   Brighton, CO
  5.8
This route has some nice hand jams and a really fun roof finish. Highly recommended. The bolt partway up has been removed, but there are plenty of gear placements. Oct 18, 2014
Matt Hagny
  5.8 R
Matt Hagny  
  5.8 R
Because cinching that old rusty carcass of a bolt looks to be a scary proposition, and the placement near it is crap (unless you've got a tiny ballnut along), I would give this an R rating. Oct 28, 2018