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Routes in Wailing Sax Wall

Auld Lang Syne T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Birdland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carola's Hip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakey Puffs From Hell TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Holy Cross T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In A Silent Way T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Jo Mama T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Made In The USA T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maiden Voyage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Misha's Madness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Morning After, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Year's Quickie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sanctify Yourself T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satchmo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Take Five T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tipples in Rime TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wailing Sax T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bruce Morris and Michael Harrington, January 1988
Page Views: 343 total, 4/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Apr 21, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This is a rather forgettable crack, but with adequate protection and decent rock.


This climb is near the right end of the Wailing Sax wall. There is a left-facing corner; climb an intermittent crack system to its right.


standard rack


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susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Russ is more generous than I. Barely worth doing unless you're looking for mileage or hoping to hit the 1,000 unique routes in JTree status. Dec 31, 2012
Russ Walling
Russ Walling
It is such a chossy wonderland over in this area of the crag, I'm not even sure I was on this route... but if I was...

The start seems to be climbers left from what is the down climb (a gully with a giant chockstone in the top of it) about 20 or 30 feet. If you start any further right, it will be a mostly very low angle slab with some plates and knobs on it and probably goes at 5.1C... If you start any further left, it is almost looking hard and sort of blank. So start in the middle of this area on good holds and head on up. There is pro, but you don't really need it... then there is a big flake/horn looking thing you can sling before moving slightly right to continue on up. At some point you will be required to make an actual move on a slab, pretty far above any pro. You will have a small slot that you can either pro or use as a hand hold. I chose pro, a small Camalot that I did not think would hold any sort of a fall. Do the one move and continue up on to the summit area to belay. I put in a couple small 3/4" cams in a flake and belayed out right in the downclimb chimney. Mostly a pretty crappy route, but you are here anyway, and it is run out, so there is some scare points to be had. Dec 31, 2012