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Routes in Wailing Sax Wall

Auld Lang Syne T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Birdland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carola's Hip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakey Puffs From Hell TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Holy Cross T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In A Silent Way T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Jo Mama T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Made In The USA T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maiden Voyage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Misha's Madness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Morning After, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Year's Quickie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sanctify Yourself T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satchmo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Take Five T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tipples in Rime TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wailing Sax T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: David Rubine and Rich McDonald, 1988
Page Views: 489 total, 8/month
Shared By: Justin Slagle on Sep 11, 2012
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is to the left of Carola's Hip and starts with some thin face moves up to the first bolt about 15 feet up. The next bolt is 20 feet up above the roof and you have to get over the small roof (more of a high step onto a head wall than pulling a roof move). There is an overhanging flake to put a #3 or #4 behind so the runout isn't that bad. Once you get to the second bolt and clip you start moving out to the right on the arete/hip. The 3rd and 4th bolt are run out as well. You finish with 25 feet of run out to the top where there is a thin seam you can get a nut in to feel a little more secure.

Protection

4 bolts (3/8"), there's places for cams and nuts too. I think you need to have a 60m rope if you're going to TR after the lead, not sure if a 50m would make it.

Photos

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Dan Evans
Phoenix, AZ
 
Dan Evans   Phoenix, AZ
 
TR'd this. Moves to the first bolt are 5.9. The roof probably goes at 5.7/5.8 followed by pretty cruiser 5.7 face climbing on the arete. The crux, a small section of delicate slabby face moves, 3/4 the way up on the arete protected by bolts. Pull this sequence and the climb is over. Be solid at the grade if you are going to lead it as the moves getting to the first bolt could be heady for anyone pushing the grade. Everything after that is easily protected. Fun climb. Dec 6, 2015
plantmandan
Brighton, CO
  5.10a PG13
plantmandan   Brighton, CO
  5.10a PG13
Very nice route. It would be a committing lead. The mini roof and arete finish are fun. You can lead Carola's Hip and easily set a TR for this route. There is a bolted anchor above it. Oct 18, 2014
Great climb takes gear to protect anything you feel is dicey or run out, easy moves and fun.worth doing definitely Apr 3, 2013