Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Wailing Sax Wall

Auld Lang Syne T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Birdland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carola's Hip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakey Puffs From Hell TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Holy Cross T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In A Silent Way T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Jo Mama T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Made In The USA T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maiden Voyage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Misha's Madness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Morning After, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Year's Quickie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sanctify Yourself T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satchmo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Take Five T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tipples in Rime TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wailing Sax T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Dimitri Barton, January 1988
Page Views: 566 total, 4/month
Shared By: Locker on Sep 15, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


13 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb discontinuous cracks to a small roof (thins a bit above the roof. Fun!) to a single bolt. Beyond that it eases up considerably. Though the route is quite short, it has some pretty cool moves and is worth a shot when in the area.

Protection

Small to medium cams, nuts. One bolt. Pro for anchors. Rap anchors to climbers left up and over the bulge (Easy to get to).

Photos

Dan Evans
Phoenix, AZ
 
Dan Evans   Phoenix, AZ
 
Definitely not 3 stars. .5 cam in the small pod and a small nut 5" above that will protect the roof and moves to follow before reaching the bolt. Found the crux of this climb to be just as difficult as the crux on the Maiden Voyage (10a). That been said, the business is right at the bolt so it is a safe lead with a clean vertical fall if you blow it. Dec 6, 2015
Fun lead not to hard and pro is all there. Nice thoughtful route. Apr 3, 2013
Justin Slagle
Palm Desert, CA
 
Justin Slagle   Palm Desert, CA
 
Its all easy to top rope true, but they are fun leads too. I've never been fortunate enough to book a campsite in Sheeps Pass CG, but i've climbed here a few times. Good shade in the morning in the warmer times, and the moderates are fun. The 10's and 11's at the end of the wall are long for josh as well. Good times. Sep 15, 2012
boulderkeith
Boulder, CO
  5.9
boulderkeith   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Wailing Sax Wall is a nice little wall to TR on to round out a day if you are staying at Sheeps Pass CG. Not a good choice if you aren't camping there. Apr 6, 2010