Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Dimitri Barton, January 1988
Page Views: 652 total · 4/month
Shared By: Locker on Sep 15, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Climb discontinuous cracks to a small roof (thins a bit above the roof. Fun!) to a single bolt. Beyond that it eases up considerably. Though the route is quite short, it has some pretty cool moves and is worth a shot when in the area.

Protection

Small to medium cams, nuts. One bolt. Pro for anchors. Rap anchors to climbers left up and over the bulge (Easy to get to).

Photos

boulderkeith
Boulder, CO
  5.9
boulderkeith   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Wailing Sax Wall is a nice little wall to TR on to round out a day if you are staying at Sheeps Pass CG. Not a good choice if you aren't camping there. Apr 6, 2010
Justin Slagle
Palm Desert, CA
 
Justin Slagle   Palm Desert, CA
 
Its all easy to top rope true, but they are fun leads too. I've never been fortunate enough to book a campsite in Sheeps Pass CG, but i've climbed here a few times. Good shade in the morning in the warmer times, and the moderates are fun. The 10's and 11's at the end of the wall are long for josh as well. Good times. Sep 15, 2012
Fun lead not to hard and pro is all there. Nice thoughtful route. Apr 3, 2013
Daniel Evans
Phoenix, AZ
 
Daniel Evans   Phoenix, AZ
 
Definitely not 3 stars. .5 cam in the small pod and a small nut 5" above that will protect the roof and moves to follow before reaching the bolt. Found the crux of this climb to be just as difficult as the crux on the Maiden Voyage (10a). That been said, the business is right at the bolt so it is a safe lead with a clean vertical fall if you blow it. Dec 6, 2015