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Routes in Wailing Sax Wall

Auld Lang Syne T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Birdland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carola's Hip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakey Puffs From Hell TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Holy Cross T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In A Silent Way T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Jo Mama T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Made In The USA T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maiden Voyage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Misha's Madness T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Morning After, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Year's Quickie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sanctify Yourself T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satchmo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Take Five T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tipples in Rime TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wailing Sax T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bill Goyette, January 1988
Page Views: 650 total, 8/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Apr 21, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a fairly nice route, with some offwidth and an overhang.

Location

In the center of the Wailing Sax Wall, there are two bolted face routes: "In A Silent Way" and "Maiden Voyage." Just to the right of these climbs is a crack that runs from bottom to top. It has some obvious wide sections.

Protection

standard rack, with a little offwidth gear

Photos

Dan Evans
Phoenix, AZ
 
Dan Evans   Phoenix, AZ
 
Once you pull the roof (pretty easy and quite fun) the climb eases significantly. Don't let the offwidth scare you off. Ample face features to the climbers left go at 5.5 on big face holds. There are a few 5.7 moves down low leading to the roof but protect just fine. Bring two #4 cams. A #5 would be useful but all the moves where you would place it are really easy. A #4 can be placed to protect the roof. Confident leaders shouldn't have any issues here. Dec 6, 2015
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Nice route, fun pulling the little roof. Sticking to the route (unlike the hybrid method mentioned above) the crack gets wider after the roof, taking 4"+ gear. The section itself climbs mostly outside of the crack with many features. Belay at the top, gear anchor with larger pieces. Decent using one of the various bolted anchors (if available) or scrambling down a gully to the climbers right to the base. Dec 31, 2012
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Not bad and takes regular gear in the 2" range. The wide stuff is easily climbed around using the many face holds and good edges. After turning the fake roof, I went out left and clipped the last two bolts on Maiden Voyage and finished up at those rap anchors. Pretty nice pitch done this way and you don't have to haul gear to set up your own anchor, or grovel up the rest of the low angle wide stuff. The upper part of Maiden Voyage is plenty easy and not run out. No worries, and it goes at maybe 5.7 or so. Dec 31, 2012