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Astronomical
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in North Astro Dome - Northeast Face
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Astronomical T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Astroturf T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Daniel's Wedge V5 6C |
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Figures on a Landscape (aka Monkey on My Back) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Go Figure T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Gunslinger T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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In Search of Hush Puppies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Nevermore TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Power Fingers T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Throat Warbler Mangrove T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Unknown Soldier T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Zion Train T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 220 ft (67 m) |
| GPS: | 34.03886, -116.14762 |
| FA: | Bob Gaines and Frank Bentwood |
| Page Views: | 1,482 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on May 27, 2010 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route links Zion Train to the upper face of Power Fingers and can be done in one spectacular, super long (70 meter) pitch.
Begin with Zion Train. Instead of moving left to the bolt belay, continue up and right on ledges to a steeper headwall with flakes (2 fixed pins, 10b/c) then face climb past 2 bolts (moving right at the second bolt) to join Power Fingers for its last three bolts (5.10-) to the top.
This pitch currently has four fixed pins (re-driven/replaced May 2010). Without the pins it would warrant an R rating. (I've heard a couple are now missing) Maybe bring a couple of Lost Arrow and baby angle pitons. All the old bolts have been replaced.
The rock quality is poor in a few sections and be forewarned that you'll be dealing with some loose rock, but the moves are interesting throughout, with good pro at the hard spots.
You can break it up into 2 pitches by moving left and belaying from a ledge on Zion Train or use slings judiciously and go for it in one pitch.
Done in one pitch It's a full rope stretcher with a 70 m rope, making it perhaps the longest pitch in Josh!
Protection
If you want to trim the rack down to just the essentials, here's a list of what I used in order of placement:
1. Blue Alien
2. # .5 Camalot
3 + 4. (equalized) #0 and #00 Metolious Mastercams
5. Fixed pin
6. Fixed pin
7. #0 Metolious TCU
8. #2 Metolious Mastercam
9. # 2 Camalot
10. #00 Metolious TCU
11.#1 Metolious TCU
12. #3 Camalot
13. #1 Camalot
14. # .75 Camalot
15. Fixed pin
16. Fixed pin
17. Bolt
18. Bolt
19. Bolt
20. Bolt
21. Bolt
3 bolt anchor
6 slings
1 double length sling
5 long quickdraws
9 regular quickdraws
I'd bring a hammer to test/redrive the pins and maybe bring a few thin Lost Arrows and a couple baby angles in case some of the pins are missing.
70 meter rope
2 Comments