Type: Trad, 220 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Frank Bentwood
Page Views: 663 total · 6/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on May 27, 2010
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route links Zion Train to the upper face of Power Fingers and can be done in one spectacular, super long (70 meter) pitch.

Begin with Zion Train. Instead of moving left to the bolt belay, continue up and right on ledges to a steeper headwall with flakes (2 fixed pins, 10b/c) then face climb past 2 bolts (moving right at the second bolt) to join Power Finger for its last three bolts (5.10-) to the top.

This pitch currently has four fixed pins (re-driven/replaced May 2010). Without the pins it would warrant an R rating. All the old bolts have been replaced.

The rock quality is poor in a few sections, and be forewarned that you'll  be dealing with some loose rock, but the moves are interesting throughout, with good pro at the hard spots.

You can break it up into 2 pitches by moving left and belaying from a ledge on Zion Train, or use slings judicously and go for it in one pitch.(70 meter rope required)

Protection

If you want to trim the rack down to just the essentials, here's a list of what I used in order of placement:

1. Blue Alien
2. # .5 Camalot
3 + 4. (equalized) #0 and #00 Metolious Mastercams
5. Fixed pin
6. Fixed pin
7. #0 Metolious TCU
8. #2 Metolious Mastercam
9. Gold Link Cam (or #2 Camalot)
10. #00 Metolious TCU
11.#1 Metolious TCU
12. #3 Camalot
13. #1 Camalot
14. # .75 Camalot
15. Fixed pin
16. Fixed pin
17. Bolt
18. Bolt
19. Bolt
20. Bolt
21. Bolt
3 bolt anchor

6 slings
1 double length sling
5 long quickdraws
9 regular quickdraws

70 meter rope

Photos

- No Photos -
#00 TCU to a #3 Camalot...wow Feb 10, 2011
john durr
Joshua Tree, CA
 
john durr   Joshua Tree, CA
 
5. Fixed pin
16. Fixed pin

are gone. Feb 28, 2016