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Power Fingers
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
Routes in North Astro Dome - Northeast Face
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Astronomical T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Astroturf T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Daniel's Wedge V5 6C |
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Figures on a Landscape (aka Monkey on My Back) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Go Figure T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Gunslinger T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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In Search of Hush Puppies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Nevermore TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Power Fingers T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Throat Warbler Mangrove T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Unknown Soldier T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Zion Train T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 34.03886, -116.14762 |
| FA: | Ed Kaufer and Keith Cunning, 1980, Re-Lead as Repo Man: Jonny Woodward and Darrel Hensel, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 2,848 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Apr 27, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route ascends the prominent gold streak under a roof to the left of Figures on a Landscape. Controversy surrounds the early days of this climb. It was first climbed by Ed Kaufer and Keith Cunning in 1980. Allegations are that the route was bolted on rappel and that holds were chipped. At the time of the ascent in 1980, the ethic was only to bolt routes ground up on the lead. Chipping of holds wasn't ok and still isn't. Later, after several ascents and the chopping of the original bolts, Jonny Woodward and Darryl Hensel re-climbed and re-bolted the route.
Pitch 1: Crimp your way past four bolts before making some strenuous moves between underclings. The powerful crux, and the insecure thin moves following it, come several feet out from the last 1/4" bolt. Belay at a two bolt anchor below the roof.
Pitch 2: Undercling right (5.10+) then lieback the right side of the huge flake (5.9) up to a bolt anchor. (1 to 3 inch pro for this pitch)
Pitch 3: Up, then left (10+) on steep face past 6 bolts to the top. There are three bolts for the anchor at the very top.
To descend, look south (toward the South Astro Dome) about 40 feet to the first of two rap anchors (each rappel is less than 100 feet).
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