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Routes in Global Village

Casual Viewing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deep Six S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disappearer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dog Fight (a.k.a. Circa Man) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eureka S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Father and Son T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Howard Roark T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jake Flake T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Kentucky Pinstripe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Loosen Up S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Out For Justice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vision T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Scott Hammon and James Newkam
Page Views: 1,007 total, 11/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Apr 8, 2010 with updates
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

Climb the flake just right of the start of Vision. Follow the crack system all the way to the top of the wall and rappel from a tree or over Kentucky Pinstripe. You can escape left onto Vision in a couple of places.

Location

Just right of Vision. Start from the same ledge.

Protection

You need smaller stuff for the start. Take care with placement. This is not a good beginner lead.

Photos

Jordan Downing
Ann Arbor, MI
  5.8+
Jordan Downing   Ann Arbor, MI
  5.8+
This was a fun climb. I did climb it after dark which would add the R rating!
Small pro in the beginning helps. Bolts at the top for TR. Nov 21, 2016
Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
 
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
 
I agree with a 5.8+/5.9 rating. I put it in as 5.7+ because other climbers insisted it was well protected with stoppers (its not) and that it wasn't that hard (it is).

Just because you can put stoppers in a crack doesn't mean they'll hold a fall. Sure, a 00 came will work, but again, that doesn't mean the fall potential so near the ground is minimized.

This is not a beginner lead and just because a beginner might pull it off doesn't change the reality of the climb. Jul 6, 2015
EthanC
5.9- PG13
EthanC  
5.9- PG13
No way is this 5.7, although it was slightly damp when I climbed it. A couple hard moves protected by 00 TCU and a wire, with the crux hold also the highest good placement (your choice). Compare this to father and son or vision around the corner. 5.7+ is a pretty severe sandbag, thought it felt much more like 5.9- or 5.9 May 18, 2015
Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
 
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
 
I'm not sure why it's showing up as 7+. I distinctly remember thinking the 5.8 grade the FA gave it (yeah I'm talking about you Scott) was BS Jan 5, 2015
Michael Mahoney
Gillette, WY
  5.10b
Michael Mahoney   Gillette, WY
  5.10b
There is no way a leader of this climb would ever rate it 5.7+. Gotta throw the Bulls**t flag on this one. The moves down low are harder than that on top rope. Mix in placing skimpy pro off of thin holds and I'd personally consider a clean lead of this climb somewhere in the low 10s. I'm clearly a wuss and in the minority with this opinion though. Oct 8, 2014
Dreez
 
Dreez  
 
Oh man, if I was a 5.7 leader trying this I would pee in my pants. I thought there were a couple thin/unprotected reachy 5.9 moves. 20 feet up. The rest is trivial. Jun 16, 2014
Andrew R.
Linden, VA
  5.8
Andrew R.   Linden, VA
  5.8
Lower part takes passive protection as well. Dec 5, 2013
This climb has it's own anchors at the top of the wall May 10, 2013