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All Locations > Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Global Village

Eureka

5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British


 Avg: 3.5 from 327 votes

Routes in Global Village

Casual Viewing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deep Six S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disappearer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dog Fight (a.k.a. Circa Man) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eureka S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Father and Son T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Howard Roark T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jake Flake T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Kentucky Pinstripe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Loosen Up S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Off With Batman T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Out For Justice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vision T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Scott Hammon and James Neukam, 1999
Page Views: 10,598 total · 73/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 31, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

Can you say vertical jug climbing? This route follows the orange and purple streaks up the vertical wall left of Fahter and Son.

This route is very popular and for good reason.

Despite the easy grade it can seem heady to lead and there is the element of loose rock involved on this route.

It's worth the walk in though, the moves are fantastic and the route unforgettable for beginners.

Location

Look left from Father and Son to the obvious vertical face just past an overhanging area. Best to rappel from the anchors.

Protection

Bolts, bolted anchors.

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Photos

Jen almost at the top of Eureka, a classic 5.6 @ Global Village RRG
Jen almost at the top of Eureka, a classic 5.6…
 1
Great 5.6 with all the different kinds of rock to navigate!
Great 5.6 with all the different kinds of rock…
 1
Eureka just before sunset
Eureka just before sunset
 0
Jen and Joe getting started on Eureka
Jen and Joe getting started on Eureka
 0
Holly dancing with shadow as the sunsets on Eureka
Holly dancing with shadow as the sunsets on Eureka
 0
Very fun 5.6
Very fun 5.6
 0
Fun to climb!
Fun to climb!
 0
rest day, putting up eureka
rest day, putting up eureka
 0
great climb for the someone not used to bigger climbs
great climb for the someone not used to bigger…
 0
Great for the new leader. I give it 4.5 stars.
Great for the new leader. I give it 4.5 stars.
 0
Eureka 5.6 at Lady Slipper- Global Village
Eureka 5.6 at Lady Slipper- Global Village
 0

13 Comments

Sort by: Oldest
Newest Oldest Best Beta
Sam Stephens
 
Sam Stephens  
 
I laughed the entire way up this. This was so much fun it was ridiculous. May 18, 2010
willsnow
park city
 
willsnow   park city
 
so much fun! huge plates and jugs on a tall route for the grade. set up a top rope and get your new climbers up something tall. and watch out for hornets nest sometimes. Aug 5, 2010
NickinCO
colorado
  5.6
NickinCO   colorado
  5.6
Fun route, led on gear. A couple cams finger to hand size and some small stoppers protects it well. As of 5/22/11 the bolts aren't chopped but protects well with gear so I didn't use them. May 23, 2011
Jeff Christbaum
Muskego, WI
  5.7
Jeff Christbaum   Muskego, WI
  5.7
Climbed it early this season, and it was 100% worth the hike. Easily one of the most fun moderates we hit the entire trip. Great views, lots of exposure, solid climbing, and un-chopped bolts. Next trip will be on all gear to make it even more interesting. May 1, 2012
Mike Gehle
  5.6
Mike Gehle  
  5.6
This is, hands down, my favorite route I've climbed to date. Juggy hold after Juggy hold, yet tall enough that there was a real sense of accomplishment after finishing it. Best route ever!! May 7, 2012
Casey the "Renaissance Man"
 
Casey the "Renaissance Man"  
 
Lead it on gear. Bolts have not been chopped in a while. This is another good one for the beginning leader, if they get scared or worry about thier gear placement they can just clip a bolt. Expect to see it crowded on the weekends. Jul 11, 2012
kevin614d
 
kevin614d  
 
Classic. Doesn't matter that it is easy, its an awesome climb. Mar 28, 2014
Michael Mahoney
Gillette, WY
  5.6
Michael Mahoney   Gillette, WY
  5.6
I need to get my kids on this climb. Easy climbs don't get any better than this! Oct 8, 2014
M.Ish
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6
M.Ish   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6
Fun climb. If you are planning on cruising this line, be prepared to wait for other groups. Makes for an excellent night climb. Sep 28, 2015
tomad01
tomad01  
Very fun, thought it would be to wet to climb after waiting out a rain storm at Largo Linda's this morning. But it was dry as a bone and no one else at the wall at all. Just saw a few (4) copperheads basking on the sun at the base of father and son and Kentucky pin striping. Jun 5, 2016
Charles Hightower
Newburgh, IN
Charles Hightower   Newburgh, IN
Saw a copperhead sticking his head up between two small boulders on the ground. Also, there is a good sized flake around the forth bolt that's ready to go. The group before us pointed it out and it was also marked with a chalk X. Probably needs a more permanent solution. Aug 10, 2017
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
For an added challenge, lead this using only a rack of slings to tie off and thread the natural features. It was a good time. May 17, 2018
Ethan Heald
Cincinnati
  5.6
Ethan Heald   Cincinnati
  5.6
Straight forward, pure fun. The approach may be harder than the climb. Great views around sunset! Jun 22, 2018

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