Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Scott Hammon, James Newkam 1999
Page Views: 3,301 total · 22/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 31, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


158 Opinions

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Description

Climb the splitter finger and hand crack off the clean boulder. Skirt right around the roof and continue on up the flake. You can step left to the anchors on Kentucky Pinstripe or continue on up the crack to higher anchors. Very fun!

A cool variation is to step left below the roof and pull it directly on and then continue up Kentucky Pinstripe. This makes a cool route in itself, combining the best parts of the two routes. Similar in grade.

Location

Walk right from Father and Son around the main corner. You'lll immediately see a sport route, then a boulder. Start this route on top of the boulder.

Rappel from bolts.

Protection

Finger to hand sized gear. You can use a #3camalot as well. Bolt anchors.

Photos

NickinCO
colorado
  5.7+
NickinCO   colorado
  5.7+
A great route. The crux is definitely in the first 20'. Once you gain the tree it's pretty chill. May 23, 2011
polloloco
Boston
  5.7+
polloloco   Boston
  5.7+
I agree with NickinCO. Definitely the first 20 ft is the crux followed a nice, chill climb. The gear on the upper half was less straightforward to me (ended up using a few tricams), but I'm a noob and probably missed a bunch of good opportunities. Sep 23, 2014
Michael Mahoney
Gillette, WY
  5.7
Michael Mahoney   Gillette, WY
  5.7
Some of the most bomber hand jams imaginable can be found on this climb. Crux is at the start where a solid finger lock can be found. Oct 8, 2014
Derrick Keene
Kentucky
 
Derrick Keene   Kentucky
 
Really fun route with a nice view at the top Apr 7, 2017