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Routes in Global Village

Casual Viewing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deep Six S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disappearer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dog Fight (a.k.a. Circa Man) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eureka S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Father and Son T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Howard Roark T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jake Flake T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Kentucky Pinstripe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Loosen Up S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Off With Batman T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Out For Justice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vision T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: John Bronaugh, Alex Yeakley, Miguel and Dario Ventura
Page Views: 3,003 total, 22/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 12, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Stem and layback the obtuse dihedral to an awkward mantel onto the sloping ledge

Location

When the approach trail nears the wall, bear left and scramble up a slipper slope to a talus ledge on the main corner.

Father and Son is the obtuse dihedral just left of the main corner.

Protection

TCUs, smaller cams up to hand sized
Rappel anchors on the ledge
Michael Mahoney
Gillette, WY
 
Michael Mahoney   Gillette, WY
 
I needed small cams to lead this. Fun climb that I wish was longer! Oct 8, 2014
polloloco
Downey, CA
  5.7
polloloco   Downey, CA
  5.7
My first trad lead. Great placements and stances! Had plenty of passive placement opportunities. Sep 17, 2014
Dreez
 
Dreez  
 
Approach: There are iron re-bar foot ladders to step up about 6 feet. On your right about 100 feet is father and sons.

great easy no brainer no panic great gear great feet climb Jun 16, 2014
Great intro lead. Running it with just stoppers is fun too. Jul 11, 2012
Jeff Christbaum
Muskego, WI
  5.7
Jeff Christbaum   Muskego, WI
  5.7
A fun climb with plenty of lay-back action. Primary pro were cams. May 1, 2012
NickinCO
colorado
  5.7
NickinCO   colorado
  5.7
great lead with stoppers only. May 23, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
I know that John named this route at least in part due to having taken Miguel and Dario on it together, but I always wondered if there was connection to the Cat Stevens song by this title as well. Jul 7, 2008