Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Early Access
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 38.68073, -108.31363 |
| FA: | FA: Ron Olevsky and Jim Newberry 1984, FFA: Chuck Grossman and Chris Begue 1984 |
| Page Views: | 9,186 total · 45/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Feb 18, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, N R, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Per Dave Erbe: these areas are now open per the WCCC and BLM update (The Island will have raptor nesting closures starting on 3/15/26, but the Cabin Wall does not have any nesting closure in place).
Previously: update: per Nolan Robertson: the land was not public yet. It was a transitional phase, being owned by a conservation group leased back to the ranch. Once the lease is completed, it will be public again. Until then, anyone going up to Cabin wall is trespassing. Please be patient, land ownership transitions take time. Anyone is more than welcome to reach out to me for regular progress reports, otherwise, Cabin Wall should be avoided until the situation is completely resolved.
...per Trevor Oman I have been informed by two sources that the land that contains the Cabin Wall and The Island is now public (NOT QUITE YET). Viewing the tract on OnX, it appears The Conservation Fund has purchased or been transferred ownership of the land. Someone more versed in the minutiae of land ownership may want to confirm this, but I wanted to put it out there to get the ball rolling on updating this page.
The Cabin Wall and the Island are closed. In regard to the rest of the areas in Escalante "Continued use of this area relies on good stewardship and a relationship of trust with the landowner."
Respect local residents, cattle and wildlife by following the posted speed limit of 20 mph.
Minimize user impact by staying on established trails and roads.
Park off the road in established pull-offs or parking areas.
Pack out human waste and garbage.
Keep noise to a minimum.
Portions of Escalante Canyon are active ranching areas. Keep pets under leash control at all times.
No fires and no discharge of firearms.
Camp in established areas only. No camping on private property.
Description
This is a classic, left-facing corner that would be a sought-after classic even at the Battle of the Bulge Wall where classic corners abound. Begin with some mostly-solid Chinle and stem, crimp, and reach until you can grasp a nice horizontal and establish yourself in the corner on the Windgate. Place a couple cams and start liebacking, which is followed by more liebacking, and then more liebacking up the slightly overhanging corner until a great foothold and hand jam appear. From here, it is straight in jamming or more liebacking up what is now a #1 Camalot crack. The anchors, which are now two bolts and chains, are just above on a ledge. The massive amounts of brightly colored fixed tat has been removed.
Although this is Escalante where this route was, without a doubt, led on hexes originally (before they made the even numbered sizes, of course) and topped on the crumbling, blank, overhanging wall (without chalk and before those dang new-fangled sport climbing shoes), most climbers now will take a few of every size from #0.4 Camalots to #2s and lower safely to the ground with a 60m rope.



8 Comments