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Routes in Lost Horizon

Bloody Horn, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Classic Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fore Paws T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Incisor Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kennel Boy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Punk Rock T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Putting the Past Away T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Garden T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rock On T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stealing Candy from a Baby T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sting, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sub Woofer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
When Dad's Run Free T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ed Webster and Billy Squier, summer of 1995
Page Views: 3,056 total, 31/month
Shared By: James Colin Walsh on Oct 18, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

A nice and mild crack climb on the first pitch and a clean slab on the second. This climb utilizes almost every move in the book (jamming, stemming, liebacking, face climbing, friction).
1. Climb the obvious left facing corner and crack (5.4) up to a short chimmney. Squirm through this up to ledges and nice 2 bolt belay.
2. Friction up the slab above the belay to the trees.

Location

The route starts just to the right of a large, prominent overlap/roof (about seven to ten feet off the ground) by the cliffs left hand side. The crack, corner, and chimney of Rock Garden is very obvious
To descend rappel twice with a 60m rope from the top of P2 or once if you choose only to climb P1.

Protection

Bring a standard trad rack. There are no bolts or pitons. ( But the P1 belay is fixed bolts and the at the top of P2 there is a tree)
Eric Nguyen
Natick, MA
  5.5
Eric Nguyen   Natick, MA
  5.5
As mentioned by Dan, no second pitch. No bolts on this route either. Tree anchor above the chimney with webbing on it. Can't remember if there are rap rings or quick links, but something is there. And, thankfully, no snakes. That's a deal breaker for me! Aug 11, 2017
Carson Darling
Cambridge, MA
Carson Darling   Cambridge, MA
We were on Rock Garden on Saturday and ran into 3 snakes in the first crack on this climb. Fairly certain they were just milk snakes, but still unnerving. Jun 27, 2016
First off, there really is no second pitch to this. Secondly, the anchor for this one is a tree directly above the chimney- there are no bolts on this one.

Did this one today for the second time, the first time was earlier in the spring and there was tat on the tree to anchor on (as I recall, I added webbing to what was there). Today there was absolutely nothing there. I left what I could as an anchor (webbing, quicklink and a spare bail 'biner), but if you do this one go prepared to leave some tat. There is a 2 bolt anchor for the route to the right, but they are probably 15' over and simple hangers with no rings. Oct 20, 2013