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Routes in Lost Horizon

Bloody Horn, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Classic Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fore Paws T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Incisor Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kennel Boy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Punk Rock T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Putting the Past Away T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Garden T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rock On T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stealing Candy from a Baby T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sting, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sub Woofer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
When Dad's Run Free T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Brad White, Ian Cruickshank
Page Views: 445 total, 11/month
Shared By: Phil Schuld on Aug 18, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Without the big, vegetated ledge halfway up, this route might be one of the better lines at Lost Horizon. As it is, this is certainly still a worthwhile route with enjoyable climbing.

Start under a 10' high roof below an obvious fingercrack splitting the face above. Pull the roof and enjoy nice finger locking up to the ledge. Climb blocky features off the right side of the ledge to a stance at a steep, wide crack (no wide gear necessary). Pull awkwardly over the steepness onto easy slabby terrain and scramble up to a double-bolt anchor with rap rings. There is also a tree with slings about 20' higher at the top of the cliff if you plan on climbing a route at the upper tier.

Location

Where the approach trail meets the cliff at the more popular routes (Punk Rock, Rock Garden, etc.) walk about 50 yards to the right along the cliff. Incisor Crack is easily identified by a small roof about 10' up and namesake finger crack.

Protection

Gear to 2"

Photos

Andrew Hewitt
Somerville
 
Andrew Hewitt   Somerville
 
This route is very fun and protects extremely well. The beginning is probably the technical crux, but the top is burly! Get ready for some full body climbing. You may want long sleeve and pants for this one. Aug 8, 2017