Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Brad White, Ian Cruickshank
Page Views: 546 total · 10/month
Shared By: Phil Salahari on Aug 18, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Without the big, vegetated ledge halfway up, this route might be one of the better lines at Lost Horizon. As it is, this is certainly still a worthwhile route with enjoyable climbing.

Start under a 10' high roof below an obvious fingercrack splitting the face above. Pull the roof and enjoy nice finger locking up to the ledge. Climb blocky features off the right side of the ledge to a stance at a steep, wide crack (no wide gear necessary). Pull awkwardly over the steepness onto easy slabby terrain and scramble up to a double-bolt anchor with rap rings. There is also a tree with slings about 20' higher at the top of the cliff if you plan on climbing a route at the upper tier.

Location

Where the approach trail meets the cliff at the more popular routes (Punk Rock, Rock Garden, etc.) walk about 50 yards to the right along the cliff. Incisor Crack is easily identified by a small roof about 10' up and namesake finger crack.

Protection

Gear to 2"

Photos

Andrew Hewitt
Somerville
 
Andrew Hewitt   Somerville
 
This route is very fun and protects extremely well. The beginning is probably the technical crux, but the top is burly! Get ready for some full body climbing. You may want long sleeve and pants for this one. Aug 8, 2017