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Routes in Lost Horizon

Bloody Horn, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Classic Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fore Paws T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Incisor Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kennel Boy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Punk Rock T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Putting the Past Away T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Garden T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rock On T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stealing Candy from a Baby T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sting, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sub Woofer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
When Dad's Run Free T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: October 1998, Dave Kelly and Robert Sagerman
Page Views: 1,346 total, 14/month
Shared By: James Colin Walsh on Oct 18, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A surprisingly nice climb with fun moves on perfect rock. Start by putting a piece in the small slot above the starting roof. Climb up the corner/arete on the roof's right side to the large ledge above. Then make some unprotected 5.9 face moves up to a fixed pin. A short finger crack above leads to balance moves, a bolt, and the crux. Continue to a tree belay.

Location

This route is five feet to the left of Rock Garden and starts under the far right hand side of the prominent roof/overlap seven to ten feet off the ground on the left side of the cliff. Look for a small slot for a wire at the lip, a fixed pin jutting out in the middle of the climb, and a bolt high above on a clean white headwall. To descend, rappel from the tree at the climb's finish.

Protection

Bring a small rack with an emphasis on small wires/TCUS to supplement the fixed pin and bolt. Tree anchor on top.

Photos

This climb is really cool. All three sections are sweet, and rather challenging- The bottom roof thing, the middle facey section, and the top rounded buldge boulder with a bolt. This top out is the crux- Delicate little foot traverse to get yourself balanced and placed under the bolt, then you gotta work your toes up as you feel a sloper, then reach for better crimps as you push up for the mantle that wins the top. Great fun, pretty much classic for me. Sep 21, 2015
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Starting up under the right side of the roof was easy but I found pulling over the arete and getting up to be a bit tricky. There are some side pulls but a lot of the overlaps are rounded.

We TR'd this after Rock Garden, using a draw on the bolt near the top as a directional. If you slip pulling onto the arete at the bottom you can grate across the roof lip as the rope draws plum so the belayer should be mindful of this just in case.

The middle face climbing and finger crack are very fun. As Jerry mentions in his guidebook, this route does seem a bit contrived. Naturally you would climb out the broken rock on the left side of the upper section. As mentioned above, balance over to the scoop at the top of the wall and mantle up on some slopey mounds onto the nice ledge / tree anchor. Aug 31, 2015
the guide book had the route ending just above the bolt on the blank face where there is a jug on top although I'm not sure whether or not the arete to the right is en route for this one. I called it once my chest was level with that bolt. great climb that is both athletic and somewhat technical. May 21, 2015
ugly ending, where does it end? Sep 23, 2014
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
This a very fun route. It was very well protected with a metolius 0 and 1. Make sure to have a small cam or two. The only move that felt 5.10 is the top at which is protected by the bolt. The rest felt 5.9- to me. There is a 5.4 to the right you could lead up to set a perfect toprope for this route. Oct 7, 2013