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Routes in Lost Horizon

Bloody Horn, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Classic Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fore Paws T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Incisor Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kennel Boy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Punk Rock T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Putting the Past Away T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Garden T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rock On T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stealing Candy from a Baby T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sting, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sub Woofer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
When Dad's Run Free T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad
FA: July 22,1995 - Ed Webster, Billy Squire
Page Views: 932 total, 10/month
Shared By: GarrettJ on May 18, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Start as for Rock Garden.

Location

Climb Rock Garden to the a crack on the right. Just to the right of the middle section of Rock Garden look for some thin flakes. Continue up a flake (5.7) to the same ledge and belay as Rock Garden.

Protection

standard rack

Photos

- No Photos -
Eric Nguyen
Natick, MA
  5.7 PG13
Eric Nguyen   Natick, MA
  5.7 PG13
Definitely has its own anchor.

Also, not listed here but appears in Handren's "North Conway Rock Climbs": Fore Paws direct. Climb up the face to the right of Rock Garden, but to horizontal below bolt for Flyboy. Traverse left into layback and join Fore Paws the rest of the way up. Good protection. Really fun moves. Felt a lot less strenuous than Fore Paws. Aug 11, 2017
This has its own anchor (above the dwarf tree, 10 feet or so to the right of Rock Garden's anchor). May 19, 2017
Quite a good climb. Not terribly easy, but also not a sandbag.

You have two choices on how to get over/across from the 5.4. You can make a long reach with a slightly intimidating traverse move into the lower part of the right-hand corner, which allows you to place pro (twice, or once, depending on your comfort level), while making a few steep moves up to the ledge ... Or I guess you can look higher up onto the left/upper part of the switchover and get across on thin flakes with slabby feet up there. I chose the first option. It was fun.

The second part of the climb takes you up this weird face with thin/flaky hollow protection and on past the dwarf tree to an anchor. This section is 5.6 but a little spooky, and good lead testing for those at the grade.

Sep 21, 2015