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Routes in Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern Slabs)

Branscum-Martin Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Chouinard Special T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Claustrophobia Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Claustrophobia Direct Start T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cornflakes T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Dirty Dishes S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fine Line S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Friction Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Initiation Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Just for Kicks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lieback, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sight Unseen S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Top Out T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Matta, Doug Robinson
Page Views: 1,846 total, 18/month
Shared By: mtoensing on Jun 3, 2009
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The crux is right off of the ground. Jam the tips crack through a small, slippery bulge. The crux is over when it is possible to get your whole finger in the crack to jam. Then mantle onto a ledge and jam the 5.6 hand sized splitter to a ledge with a bolted anchor.

Admin's Note: It is highly recommended that you continue from the bolted anchor for another 100 feet of excellent climbing along the tiny crack (5.7-) above the first bolted belay. The crack is usually too small to insert fingers but there is an abundance of face holds. It is possible to adequately protect this crack using micro-cams and tiny stoppers. Descend from a bolted rap station 160 feet off the ground.

Location

About 40 feet to the right of lieback crack. It is the obvious splitter to the right of the thin crack.

Protection

I used an old BD yellow cam (I think it is .2 size piece) so a blue TCU is probably suffecient. Then a .3 BD (Blue) size piece and a .4 (Grey) BD size piece. Then some wires and hand size pieces for the rest of the climb.

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.10b/c
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.10b/c
I have big hands, but I'm also 6'-1" with a +3" reach. I was able to stand on the horizontal seam/ledge near the base and reach high for a nice finger lock. I guess this is a tall-guy route. Apr 2, 2013
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
this thing reminds me of a desert crack in that it is finger size dependent. i struggled on the first few moves time and time again while my lady cruised this no problem a few laps in a row! May 29, 2012
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.10b/c
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.10b/c
The laser-cut crack that makes up the first 60 feet of this route (all of it in the tight-fingers to tight-hands range) is simply incredible. Dec 5, 2010