Type: Trad, Sport, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,641 total · 22/month
Shared By: mtoensing on Jun 3, 2009
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

Start off in the dihedral with the hand sized crack (15 feet left of the start of the Lieback). Jam this to a ledge (5.7), then clip the first bolt. The ledge has an anchor on it but keep climbing. Climb up the slab on whatever micro edges you can find to the next bolt. There are 5 bolts on the face to a ledge with a bolted anchor.

Admin's Note: there is also a second pitch of runout face climbing that leads to a higher bolted belay anchor.

Location

The first dihedral route to the right after hiking up the trail--Starts just 15 feet to the left of the Lieback.

Protection

Some wires and hand sized pieces for the start dihedral which is about 40 feet long. Then some QD's for the face. 70 meter rope needed for this route, a 60m WILL NOT get you to the ground.

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Originally rated 5.8 X. Subsequently, four lead bolts were added to protect what had been a 30 foot runout on the first pitch.
Oct 16, 2009
Ryan Nevius
Chiang Mai, TH
  5.8
Ryan Nevius   Chiang Mai, TH
  5.8
Great climb. The slab above the crack is classic. Perfect little edges. Just keep moving! Dec 28, 2011
Chris Joy  
 
Would anybody be opposed to some of us adding a few bolts to extend this beautiful route to the top belay station for Captain Crunch and Cornflakes? They would go straight up, so you don't have to climb up and left 20' for a bolt. Jan 6, 2017
Dunder .
Bakersfield ca
  5.8+
Dunder .   Bakersfield ca
  5.8+
Chris, straight up from the anchor goes on gear pretty easily. Jun 30, 2018
Erik Solli
  5.8+
Erik Solli  
  5.8+
Really enjoyed this route, just wish it was longer! Crack/layback is easy (5.6) and eats pro, bolted face makes it interesting (5.8+). 70m rope got us comfortably back to the ground. 60m would probably have to do two raps (second from the bolts at the top of the ledge). Climbed it in November, beautiful sunny day with no one around. Dec 11, 2018