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Routes in Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern Slabs)

Branscum-Martin Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Chouinard Special T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Claustrophobia Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Claustrophobia Direct Start T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cornflakes T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Dirty Dishes S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fine Line S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Friction Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Initiation Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Just for Kicks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lieback, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sight Unseen S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Top Out T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Well it Looked Easy! T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,491 total · 23/month
Shared By: mtoensing on Jun 3, 2009
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

Start off in the dihedral with the hand sized crack (15 feet left of the start of the Lieback). Jam this to a ledge (5.7), then clip the first bolt. The ledge has an anchor on it but keep climbing. Climb up the slab on whatever micro edges you can find to the next bolt. There are 5 bolts on the face to a ledge with a bolted anchor.

Admin's Note: there is also a second pitch of runout face climbing that leads to a higher bolted belay anchor.

Location [Suggest Change]

The first dihedral route to the right after hiking up the trail--Starts just 15 feet to the left of the Lieback.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Some wires and hand sized pieces for the start dihedral which is about 40 feet long. Then some QD's for the face. 70 meter rope needed for this route, a 60m WILL NOT get you to the ground.

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Originally rated 5.8 X. Subsequently, four lead bolts were added to protect what had been a 30 foot runout on the first pitch.
Oct 16, 2009
Ryan Nevius
Estes Park, CO
  5.8
Ryan Nevius   Estes Park, CO
  5.8
Great climb. The slab above the crack is classic. Perfect little edges. Just keep moving! Dec 28, 2011
Chris Joy  
 
Would anybody be opposed to some of us adding a few bolts to extend this beautiful route to the top belay station for Captain Crunch and Cornflakes? They would go straight up, so you don't have to climb up and left 20' for a bolt. Jan 6, 2017

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