Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 11,154 total · 89/month
Shared By: Katy H on Oct 15, 2008
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Follow the left-facing dihedral

P1-Finger sized crack up past small bush/tree
Belay at the notch with the perpendicular crack (there is a lot of debris from old gear and such)

P2-Continue up dihedral to ledge
Climb straight up past a single bolt (5.8 PG) to a bolted belay or go left past an undercling (protectable, but its hard to see the gear). At the end of the undercling, head up through an intermittent crack in a groove. There is a bolted belay above on the left.


Obvious left-facing dihedral that splits the rock up the middle.

To walk off, get to the top of the ridge and walk off South side to base (rappel is recommended)


Small to mid-sized cams and nuts
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
I climbed this route with very limited beta--just what is available in the Needles Guidebook. I am RELIEVED to see that other folks have graded this route 5.8. This was a sustained and challenging lead--at least as hard as the classic lieback on White Punks.

I expected a walk in the park...
Instead, I got absolutely awesome 5.8 endurance liebacking. This route is like a Tobin's Dihedral for mortals. Oct 13, 2009
mtoensing   Boulder
Did Katy sandbag this route?

I have never climbed this but she always told me it was a 5.5. Probably just to sangbag me as well haha. Next time I am out there I will see how it is for myself. Sep 4, 2010
Adam S.
Kernville, CA
Adam S.   Kernville, CA
The old Needles Guide Book rates this as a 5.5.
I think someone expecting an easy 5.5 may get more than they expected.
It is an excellent route though that will take as much gear as you can carry! Sep 12, 2010
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
Agree with the 5.8 rating on this one. Or the biggest sandbag 5.5 in the country. Great route regardless. Nov 9, 2010
Chad N
Central California
Chad N   Central California
Great movement on this route. Felt like 5.6 to me. Feb 14, 2012
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
Very sweet. I think the hard part was more comparable to anti jello crack's crux (and not all that much easier). The crack in the corner really pinched down in spots. And, if you do the "undercling" variation, you can just barely rap with a 70m (I definitely don't think you could from the straight up var. rap anchor). It is pretty sketchy. Best just bring two ropes. Apr 30, 2012
Richard Shore
Richard Shore  
The best "5.5" pitch on the planet! Neat little crux where you transition from liebacking the crack to liebacking some small crimps on the right wall. The "Enduro Corner" of Kernville.. Jul 16, 2012
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
If you are jacked up strong and climbing ALL the time... probably in the Needles..., this might feel like 5.5 to you.

For most mortals, this is 5.8 cruxes with sustained, dare I say, 5.7 climbing. I would tilt an ear to those who say the sustained climbing is 5.6

5.5 is a sandbag.

This is a wonderfully beautiful climb in a beautiful area. You are likely to have it all to yourself, if you get the season right. (not summer!) Combine it with a weekend trip to the brewery and you've got a perfect coupling. Mar 18, 2013
Jeffrey Addison
Anaheim, CA
Jeffrey Addison   Anaheim, CA
My first lead climb, second pitch. The traverse was a little scary for me but I had a blast. I'm glad other people rate it higher than 5.5. I don't really know what I consider it but it was definitely harder than The Swift on Lost Horse Wall in Josh (5.7). Apr 3, 2013
Allison Boyle
Allison Boyle  

We went to run laps on the lieback crack this weekend for some trad and multipitch practice, and I got to lead this thing for the first time.

Definitely feels harder than a 5.5, but then again, I'm just getting into trad and crack climbing. Toproping this thing I felt 100% fine, but when I lead it, I got real tense in some of the areas where the crack thins out... but in the end, I'm really glad I did it. It's a challenging and fun little crack climb. There are a couple nice rests along the climb, so be sure to take advantage of them because once you get to the crack its pretty sustained finger crack with mostly slab feet.

Maybe don't pick this as your first trad lead, but then again, the pieces are pretty bomber. We had 2 regular racks and were fine leading the climb with what we had, but I wish I had more of the black diamond purples (.5) and silvers (.4). For the anchor we used a BD Blue (3), BD red (1) and BD yellow (2). Feb 9, 2015
Chris Joy
  5.8 PG13
Chris Joy  
  5.8 PG13
Had a blast leading this route today (second time leading, third time climbing). Like most people, I believe this route definitely has some crazy fun 5.8 moves on the book/lieback section. I used a few of micro tri-cams and stoppers, a .5 (BD C4) and a 1 (BD C3) for the book/lieback section. Used a .75 (BD C4) on the undercling section, and a 1 (BD C4) on the water channel finishing up the route. Used my 80M rope to rappel from the top to a set of rap rings halfway down, and then the 80M from those rings to the ground. Nov 27, 2015
Glad to see this is no longer considered 5.5, which was a joke. Jun 23, 2018