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Routes in Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern Slabs)

Branscum-Martin Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Chouinard Special T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Claustrophobia Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Claustrophobia Direct Start T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cornflakes T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Dirty Dishes S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fine Line S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Friction Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Initiation Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Just for Kicks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lieback, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sight Unseen S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Top Out T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 260 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,124 total, 28/month
Shared By: Ryan Nevius on Jul 18, 2011
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start at the base of Lieback and make some low 5th class moves up ledges to the right to access the crack. There is a two bolt anchor just to the right of the start of this crack system that can be used to top rope the first pitch of Initiation Crack. The crack starts as hands then widens to off width, goes to a very fun 20 foot chimney, and then finishes up with fingers to a bolted belay/rap station. The final pitch goes up and slightly right however the are many options for finishing up from here. If you do decide to go straight up there is another bolted belay/rap station at the top.

Location

This climb shares the start with Lieback Crack and is to the right of Friction Slab. Keep right until you reach the prominent crack and a bolted belay on the first ledge which marks the start of the Claustrophobia Crack.

Protection

Can be well protected with medium to large cams and/or nuts.

Photos

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