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Routes in Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern Slabs)

Branscum-Martin Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Chouinard Special T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Claustrophobia Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Claustrophobia Direct Start T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cornflakes T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Dirty Dishes S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fine Line S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Friction Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Initiation Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Just for Kicks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lieback, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sight Unseen S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Top Out T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 160 ft
FA: Matta & McGee (Nov. 1974)
Page Views: 943 total, 11/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Dec 4, 2010
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Sustained slab climbing on quality rock.

The route starts in a shallow, left-facing corner. From the top of the corner, the route heads straight up for 30 feet past one bolt, to a second. From the second bolt, the route traverses left for about 6 feet and then climbs edges and smears past two more bolts to a bolted belay.

Location

The route starts about 50 feet left of a large pine tree which leans against the wall that is left of Chouinard Special and Lieback. The route starts 20 feet left of the obvious bolts which mark the start of Just for Kicks.

Protection

Contributors Note: I have not led this route.

It appears as if the opening dihedral would only accept marginal placements using micro-sized gear. The 4 lead bolts protect more than 120 feet of climbing. The route receives an X-rating in the Moser/Vernon/Paul guidebook.

It is possible to top-rope this route using two ropes by first leading both pitches of Lieback and then rappelling down and left to the top of Cornflakes/Just for Kicks.

Photos

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