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Routes in Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern Slabs)

Branscum-Martin Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Chouinard Special T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Claustrophobia Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Claustrophobia Direct Start T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cornflakes T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Dirty Dishes S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fine Line S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Friction Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Initiation Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Just for Kicks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lieback, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sight Unseen S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Top Out T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,152 total, 12/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Oct 16, 2009
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Awesome face climbing on clean, white granite. Reasonably protected.

Start at the same place as the Lieback and traverse right onto the face. Climb this face until reaching the "bathtub ledge" which marks the top of the Lieback's first pitch. Continue in a hand-sized crack up and right--40 feet higher, and about 25 feet to the right, is a two bolt anchor. Rappel from here or follow the last pitch of Claustrophobia Crack to the top.

If rappelling with one rope, there is an intermediate rappel station on the face below (it will take you two raps to get down).

Location

Climbs the clean face just a few feet right of the Lieback (between the Lieback and Claustrophobia Crack).

Protection

Bolts, a few pieces of gear from tiny to 2-inches.

Sadly, when the route was re-equipped with modern lead bolts, the original Leeper hangers were placed on the new five-piece Rawls.

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