Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern Slabs) Rock Climbing

**UPDATE**  (Feb 27, 2025)

After a two-year effort, I'm pleased to announce that over 90% of the aging lead bolts and anchors on Kern Slab have been removed and replaced with either 3/8" or 1/2" stainless steel bolts/hangers and belay/rappel anchors (many of which are SS ring anchors). Thanks to all that have donated to the American Safe Climbing Association to help provide the necessary resources needed to make many of the older established routes safer. Be sure to check out the photos of the manky relics that were pulled! (posted to this page)

This beautiful dome-like slab has a wealth of history and a host of classic slab climbs, with rewarding views looking up and down the Kern River. Kern Slab received its initial first ascents starting in the early 70's, with ascents of The Lieback and Claustrophobia Crack (originally rated 5.5). This was during an age when old hexes and homemade manufactured thread nuts were used. Many of the bolted slab climbs didn't come until much later. Of those most notable, especially for their bold and somewhat runout nature, Cornflakes (5.9R) and Branscum-Martin Route(5.9R) stood as testiments of daring skill and ability. However, several modern bolted slab climbs have appeared in recent years, which have proved to be engaging, thoughtful and challenging yet a bit less runout. The Beer Wall (left lower side of the slab) was recently developed in the last few years by locals Marco Kreb, Matt Chambers, Dave Daly, and legendary Herb Laeger, who has completed hundreds of FA's since the 70's throughout the southern Sierra and beyond. Most of the routes on the Beer Wall range from 5.7 to 5.9, with one or two dipping into 5.10. Highlighted routes worth checking out: Hop Matter (5.7+), Lagers With Laeger (5.8), Fine Line (.10a) and Friction Brewing (5.10c/d)

Overall, most of the routes at Kern Slab are moderate in nature and equipped with 2-bolt ring/chained anchors to rap from. In regards to multi-pitch routes, always carry 2 ropes. Some of the older routes were done with (2) 50 meter ropes. You'll discover that using a single 70 meter rope to rap with won't quite make it to the next set of anchors. If you decide to top rope, please minimize the use of threading ropes through the chains or rings and use an equalized anchor system. This cuts down on the wear and tear of the rings/chains.

The best time of year to climb at Kern Slab is from late fall to late spring. If you're going to climb during the summer months, best times would be 7AM to 10AM, before the sun crests over Powers Ridge. Also, be aware that this is also rattlesnake country. Keep a good eye out near the base of the rock for them, especially in the early to late spring. Lastly, please be mindful by packing out what you packed in. Lots of good folks have worked hard to keep this area clean to demonstrate that climbers are responsible users of such wonderful natural resources.