Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 40 ft|
|FA:||Doug Couleur, Lee Sheftel|
|Page Views:||46 total · 0/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on May 31, 2009|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionThere's some ambiguity about this climb; 5.9 leaders beware.
All 3 guidebooks show this as a 2-bolt variation to Holy Wars (5.11a), angling right after the 3rd bolt. However, most figure the crux of Holy Wars is probably the sequency moves on pockets on a slightly overhanging face before the first 2 bolts, which would be shared with Mont. Deviate, which calls into question the 5.9+ rating. However, the text description in Rock Climbing: New Mexico, but not the topo, says "to climb a crack, then pass a diagonal crack, then past 2 bolts", which would avoid the Holy Wars crux by climbing an independent start to the right, which might keep it at 5.9.
In either case, the upper section of this climb is steep, uncharacteristically textured & featured with knobs, and a better-protected but less aesthetic option than the upper part of Holy Wars. Angle left at the top to reach the Holy Wars anchor, which may be inconvenient for those following or toproping.
LocationStart as for Holy Wars, but go right after the 3rd bolt, or climb directly up to these bolts following a hand crack.
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