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Routes in North Cliffband

Back to Montana S,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Cochiti Classic T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cochiti Ugly T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Empty and Meaningless S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Feminist Men S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grunge Up the Munge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gunning for the Buddha S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Holy Wars S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
La Espina S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Laurel's Ledges S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monkey Lust S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Montana Deviate T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Napoleon Blown-Apart S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pickpocket S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Praise the Lunge S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thief Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thief in Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
To Catch A Thief S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Touch Monkey S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown - Boulder Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 40 ft
FA: Doug Couleur, Lee Sheftel
Page Views: 55 total · 0/month
Shared By: George Perkins on May 31, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

There's some ambiguity about this climb; 5.9 leaders beware.

All 3 guidebooks show this as a 2-bolt variation to Holy Wars (5.11a), angling right after the 3rd bolt. However, most figure the crux of Holy Wars is probably the sequency moves on pockets on a slightly overhanging face before the first 2 bolts, which would be shared with Mont. Deviate, which calls into question the 5.9+ rating. However, the text description in Rock Climbing: New Mexico, but not the topo, says "to climb a crack, then pass a diagonal crack, then past 2 bolts", which would avoid the Holy Wars crux by climbing an independent start to the right, which might keep it at 5.9.

In either case, the upper section of this climb is steep, uncharacteristically textured & featured with knobs, and a better-protected but less aesthetic option than the upper part of Holy Wars. Angle left at the top to reach the Holy Wars anchor, which may be inconvenient for those following or toproping.

Location

Start as for Holy Wars, but go right after the 3rd bolt, or climb directly up to these bolts following a hand crack.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, shared with Holy Wars
or
Trad gear, then 2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, shared with Holy Wars

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