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Routes in North Cliffband

Back to Montana S,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Cochiti Classic T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cochiti Ugly T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Empty and Meaningless S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Feminist Men S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grunge Up the Munge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gunning for the Buddha S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Holy Wars S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
La Espina S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Laurel's Climb S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monkey Lust S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Montana Deviate T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Napoleon Blown-Apart S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pickpocket S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Praise the Lunge S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thief Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thief in Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
To Catch A Thief S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Touch Monkey S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown - Boulder Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Dan Parks, Adam Read 5/88
Page Views: 1,046 total, 8/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 6, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This is apparently the "warmup" for the North Mesa. Unfortunately this route looks a lot better than it is. Extremely short, with about 10 feet of really fun, juggy climbing, to a slabby, slopey, technical (for the grade) arete finish.

Also, the Offwidth approach detracts significantly. What better way to warm up than by thrutching up a sandy shoot in your pink lycra?

Location

This route begins atop the "Giant Boulder" down and left from Touch Monkey. Begin by scrambling awkwardly up the offwidth on the right (SE) corner of the boulder. Its probably most convenient if only the climber surmounts the boulder. The belayer can belay from the base of the boulder, just right of La Espina. Also its best to lower off the boulder (from the Monkey Lust anchor) rather than try to downclimb the OW.

Protection

4 Bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
The second bolt is now missing, making for definite deck potential. I think you can get gear in the horizontal, so bring gear or don't fall. May 19, 2011
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
 
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
 
The second bolt is suspect and needs to be replaced asap. I would not recommend a fall on this bolt as it is sticking out of the rock almost two inches, wiggles by hand, is a mega spinner, and the threads are stripped. This scared me worse than a bad ice screw. Comfort would be added with the use of a screamer. Aug 2, 2010
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
One better choice than the offwidth start is to climb one of the "boulder routes" Laurel's Climb or Unknown - Boulder Left instead to get to the big balcony ledge below the steep bolted section. Aug 17, 2008
tim naylor
  5.10b
tim naylor  
  5.10b
thanks for the work. I climbed this six years ago and thought the bolts were bad then! Sep 5, 2007
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.10a
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.10a
Four bolts to a two-bolt anchor. The anchors, as well as the first and fourth bolts have been replaced with 1/2, glued-in bolts. The second bolt wobbles slightly, but the third, even though it's older, is still solid. Thanks to whomever is investing their time and effort to keeping this place safe and in good shape. Aug 17, 2007