Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Dan Parks, Adam Read 5/88
Page Views: 1,107 total · 8/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 6, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is apparently the "warmup" for the North Mesa. Unfortunately this route looks a lot better than it is. Extremely short, with about 10 feet of really fun, juggy climbing, to a slabby, slopey, technical (for the grade) arete finish.

Also, the Offwidth approach detracts significantly. What better way to warm up than by thrutching up a sandy shoot in your pink lycra?

Location

This route begins atop the "Giant Boulder" down and left from Touch Monkey. Begin by scrambling awkwardly up the offwidth on the right (SE) corner of the boulder. Its probably most convenient if only the climber surmounts the boulder. The belayer can belay from the base of the boulder, just right of La Espina. Also its best to lower off the boulder (from the Monkey Lust anchor) rather than try to downclimb the OW.

Protection

4 Bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.10a
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.10a
Four bolts to a two-bolt anchor. The anchors, as well as the first and fourth bolts have been replaced with 1/2, glued-in bolts. The second bolt wobbles slightly, but the third, even though it's older, is still solid. Thanks to whomever is investing their time and effort to keeping this place safe and in good shape. Aug 17, 2007
tim naylor
  5.10b
tim naylor  
  5.10b
thanks for the work. I climbed this six years ago and thought the bolts were bad then! Sep 5, 2007
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
One better choice than the offwidth start is to climb one of the "boulder routes" Laurel's Ledges or Unknown - Boulder Left instead to get to the big balcony ledge below the steep bolted section. Aug 17, 2008
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
 
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
 
The second bolt is suspect and needs to be replaced asap. I would not recommend a fall on this bolt as it is sticking out of the rock almost two inches, wiggles by hand, is a mega spinner, and the threads are stripped. This scared me worse than a bad ice screw. Comfort would be added with the use of a screamer. Aug 2, 2010
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
The second bolt is now missing, making for definite deck potential. I think you can get gear in the horizontal, so bring gear or don't fall. May 19, 2011