Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Kristin Drumheller, Bill Dockins
Page Views: 62 total · 0/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Oct 9, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

4 Opinions

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This is a good route on excellent rock. Unfortunately the crux start demoralizes many would-be climbers. Begin with a beautiful set of heavily chalked pockets that are unfortunately much more thin and slopy than they appear from the ground. Once you are 3 feet off the ground the pockets improve dramatically and the climbing eases. This is the first opportunity to clip the first bolt, so a stick clip is recommended. More good pockets lead to a horizontal break, then a short thin section that leads to a sea of unusual nubbins and small chickenheads. Follow the steepening wall to the anchor.


Two routes left (N) of Gunning for the Buddha.


[4] bolts, 2 BA. This ones easy to toprope.


Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
Brian Quiter   Oakland, CA
Beverly's book indicates that Montana Deviate (5.9+) starts on Holy Wars and bends right near the top. This is wrong. The 5.9+ way up the face heavily relies upon using the wide crack on the right. Sep 8, 2008
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
There are 4 bolts on this route. (Perhaps the 2nd bolt is newer than the guidebooks, which only mention 3?)

The original Samet guide recommends bringing a TCU to go in the crack before the last bolt; I wish I'd known that. Bring a cam (#1 camalot recommended, but slightly smaller is ok), because it's a long ways between the 3rd and 4th bolt. If you get up there and get scared, you can chicken out and go right to Montana Deviate, which I considered.

The moves before the first bolt are easier for tall people, and seem harder than 5.9+ (the rating for Montana Deviate, which supposedly shares the start?). Tall people can also reach the 1st bolt by stemming off the boulder behind. Apr 19, 2009