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Routes in North Cliffband

Back to Montana S,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Cochiti Classic T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cochiti Ugly T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Empty and Meaningless S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Feminist Men S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grunge Up the Munge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gunning for the Buddha S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Holy Wars S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
La Espina S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Laurel's Climb S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monkey Lust S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Montana Deviate T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Napoleon Blown-Apart S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pickpocket S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Praise the Lunge S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thief Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thief in Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
To Catch A Thief S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Touch Monkey S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown - Boulder Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Kristin Drumheller, Bill Dockins
Page Views: 41 total, 0/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Oct 9, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This is a good route on excellent rock. Unfortunately the crux start demoralizes many would-be climbers. Begin with a beautiful set of heavily chalked pockets that are unfortunately much more thin and slopy than they appear from the ground. Once you are 3 feet off the ground the pockets improve dramatically and the climbing eases. This is the first opportunity to clip the first bolt, so a stick clip is recommended. More good pockets lead to a horizontal break, then a short thin section that leads to a sea of unusual nubbins and small chickenheads. Follow the steepening wall to the anchor.

Location

Two routes left (N) of Gunning for the Buddha.

Protection

[4] bolts, 2 BA. This ones easy to toprope.

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11a
There are 4 bolts on this route. (Perhaps the 2nd bolt is newer than the guidebooks, which only mention 3?)

The original Samet guide recommends bringing a TCU to go in the crack before the last bolt; I wish I'd known that. Bring a cam (#1 camalot recommended, but slightly smaller is ok), because it's a long ways between the 3rd and 4th bolt. If you get up there and get scared, you can chicken out and go right to Montana Deviate, which I considered.

The moves before the first bolt are easier for tall people, and seem harder than 5.9+ (the rating for Montana Deviate, which supposedly shares the start?). Tall people can also reach the 1st bolt by stemming off the boulder behind. Apr 19, 2009
Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
Brian Quiter   Oakland, CA
Beverly's book indicates that Montana Deviate (5.9+) starts on Holy Wars and bends right near the top. This is wrong. The 5.9+ way up the face heavily relies upon using the wide crack on the right. Sep 8, 2008