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Routes in North Cliffband

Back to Montana S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cochiti Classic T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cochiti Ugly T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Empty and Meaningless S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Feminist Men S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grunge Up the Munge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gunning for the Buddha S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Holy Wars S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
La Espina S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Laurel's Ledges S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monkey Lust S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Montana Deviate T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Napoleon Blown-Apart S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pickpocket S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Praise the Lunge S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thief Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thief in Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
To Catch A Thief S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Touch Monkey S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown - Boulder Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 61 total · 1/month
Shared By: George Perkins on May 31, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Follow the thin seam on the beautiful face. There's a crux after the 2nd bolt, passed with a hard-to-see sequence, which may go both to the right or to the left off the seam. You're through the sequence as you get the 2-finger pocket and a pinch in the seam at the 3rd bolt. The difficulty eases as the angle drops back for the next 30'. Watch out for those last 2 thin moves trying to steal your redpoint when the chains are so close!

I think this is one of the later additions to Cochiti, as it's not in the early 90s Samet/Jett guidebook; therefore I have no FA info (lemme know).

Location

Bolted climb immediately left of La Espina

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor

Photos

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
While this makes for fun climbing, especially if you like thin tenuous climbing, the rock quality is significantly worse than the neighboring La Espina. Several of the footholds have lost there patina giving a ball bearing feeling on the holds. Also the two best holds on the route which would make great resting holds if you could pull on them have the consistency of cardboard, be careful not to rip these off. Much harder than La Espina for me. May 19, 2011

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