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Routes in North Cliffband

Back to Montana S,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Cochiti Classic T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cochiti Ugly T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Empty and Meaningless S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Feminist Men S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grunge Up the Munge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gunning for the Buddha S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Holy Wars S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
La Espina S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Laurel's Climb S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monkey Lust S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Montana Deviate T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Napoleon Blown-Apart S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pickpocket S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Praise the Lunge S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thief Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thief in Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
To Catch A Thief S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Touch Monkey S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown - Boulder Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Lusty Smudgemuffin
Page Views: 421 total, 4/month
Shared By: George Perkins on May 31, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Can you really call a climb with an offwidth crux the namesake "Classic" for a sport-climbing area? Guess so.

  • Perfect hand crack for 20'.
  • Right-angling wide grungy crack with lots of holds and huecos (easy).
  • 5.10 offwidth- sharp on the inside, rounded edges on the outside.

Scramble up to the top, where you can anchor with gear, off trees, or reach over to the La Espina anchor (which is far enough left of this route to be annoying for TRing/following).

Location

Cochiti Classic is the obvious crack just right of La Espina or just left of Monkey Lust.

Protection

Cams from 1.5" (#1 camalot) up to 4" (#4 camalot). A cam bigger than #4 is probably reassuring to have.

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