Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Sheftel, Couleur
Page Views: 57 total · 0/month
Shared By: Jason Hundhausen on Sep 7, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Back to Montana climbs the face just to the left of Holy Wars. The crux moves are right off the deck, and the first bolt is about 15 feet up, so you may want to use a clip-stick. Begin in a sinker 2 finger pocket with the right hand and a shallow 2 finger pocket with the left, lock off and stretch out to reach another sinker with the right (good clipping pocket). Move past the first bolt (second crux) to a series of buckets leading to a ledge. It's run-out to the fourth bolt and there is an opportunity to place a TCU, but the climbing is quite a bit easier. Find the final crux moves as you head up to the newly installed 1/2" anchors.

Location

10 feet left of Holy Wars

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt chained anchor

Photos

Rick Shull
Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Rick Shull   Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV  
When I did this in the early 90's it was rated 11a. I thought it was pretty damn pumpy for 11a. Now I know why. Aug 3, 2009