Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Leslie Coon
Page Views: 55 total · 0/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Aug 17, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This climb tempts you, as it looks like a nice face, starting from the comfy porch ledge that you belay from for the popular warm-up to its left (Monkey Lust).

It's a thin face start to a horizontal crack, an awkward high step, and one tough move to the monopocket to clip the 3rd bolt. The crux is pulling on one and two finger pockets between 3rd and 4th bolts, with an easier finish.

All 3 guidebooks say this climb has modified/chipped holds and therefore should be avoided at all costs. I didn't think the climbing or the rock was horrendous, but the climb certainly isn't up to the average standard for Cochiti for overall quality.

Location

Just right of Monkey Lust, starts on the flat block balcony. Climb up the chimney to the right, or Laurel's Climb or Unknown to get to the start.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. One of the guides says the hangers were removed at one point, but they are all there as of 2008.

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